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Old 04-30-2007, 03:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
Silverado6.5TD
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Blowing Black Smoke

I am new to this forum and am hoping with all the great knowledge in this forum, someone can help me with my diesel dilemma.

My apologies up front for the length of this, but I thought I would give as much detail as I could and hope someone could offer some knowledge and where to start.

I bought a 98 1500 4x4 6.5TD (my first diesel and I caught the fever) about 6 months ago to pull my holiday trailer because my gas pickup didn't cut it and haul stuff my grand prix wouldn't.

I was needing the truck for a specific date (time of year, my wife wouldn't like it if I was going on a date) and after looking at so many trucks that have been run into the ground and then some, I found one that even though the engine light was on, it seemed to run great and sounded good to.

Anyways, shortly after I got it home, I changed the oil, the air filter and the fuel filter. Just something I like to do because then I know I am starting fresh.

While I was changing the fuel filter I notice a vacuum line that was not connected and eventually found that it should be connected to the MAP sensor.

After I had everything back together I went for a drive an it was pumping out black smoke to no end on acceleration and at times was really bogging down and then all of a sudden it was like a gas engine when the four barrels open up.

It was suggested to me that maybe I did not get all the air out when I changed the fuel filter so I bleed the filter again.

Still had the problem. So, I decided I would disconnect the vacuum line from the MAP sensor like it was before and the black smoke was gone and it was running fine again, but the engine light was always on.

After a while, it started to stall on occassion and continued to get worse, like the symtoms of the PDM that I have been reading about.

I bought a code reader and pulled the following codes.

1. P1409 (MIL) - EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
2. P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / Performance Problem
3. P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
4. P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance
5. P0251 Injection Pump A Malfunction (Cam / Rotor / Injector)
6. P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
7. P0101 PENDING - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / Performance Problem
8. P0236 PENDING - Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance
9. P0401 PENDING - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

I also checked the vacuum pump and got about 22" vacuum at the wastegate connection.

I was told to install the 3 new solenoids (both EGR and the wastegate) because they usually fail close to the same time, so I installed 3 new GM solenoids and I connected all the vacuum lines to their proper locations including the MAP sensor and cleared the codes and started fresh.

I went for a drive and now it pumps out black smoke with or without the MAP sensor vacuum line is disconnected.

Then not only was it pumping out the black smoke heavy, it would hardly accelerate past 40 mph and was really sluggish.

The drive home was about 10 miles and basically after it was at operating temperature, it started to stall and would be hard to start.

Normally when it would stall, I could pop it into neutral, turn the key off and then start the truck again and continue on.

In the last 2 miles it stalled about 12 times and each time I had to pull over and it was very hard to start. I would start going again and I could not get much past 30mph and it would stall again.

The last time it stalled, I just about killed both batteries trying to start it, but I manage to limp my truck home.

It took about 40 minutes for a 10 minute drive. Anyways, the engine light came back on during the drive home.

I checked the new codes and got the following

P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected (MIL)
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance (PENDING)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected (PENDING)

I decided to try and put the old solenoids back in to see if by chance it would be back to where I started from, but the old solenoids produced the same symptoms as after I installed the new solenoids, but only 3 codes instead of 9 codes.

Why would installing 3 new parts make the truck run worse?

Where should I begin to start (cheapest start)?

Oh ya, shortly after it started to stall, I learned about the supply pump and noticed after the supply pump there was a piece called a "Turbulator Fuel Saver" in the line.

It was leaking on the output side so I tightened it up thinking this was the fix to the stalling problem, but it wasn't.

Is this turbulator a factory piece or something someone decided to add in after?

I am also not sure, but the supply pump looks like it is pretty old, but it is hard to tell because it gets allot of road grime.

I started my truck today and pulled the vacuum line off EGR and it had 0" on the gauge. I tried the line going to the MAP sensor and nothing.

After the truck was at operating temp, the EGR read 11-12", but was bouncing back and forth rapidly. The MAP sensor line showed 12" steady

I do not even know where to start after changing the 3 solenoids, but this is what I tried next.....................

The wastegate linkage moved fine when truck not running. It did not move when I started the truck. I checked for vacuum at wastegate and nothing.

I checked vacuum before the line going into the wastegate solenoid and had 23". I swapped out the wastegate solenoid with a new one and the linkage worked. When I pulled on the linkage it came out, and then went right back in.

I went for a quick spin and it still blows black smoke, but not nearly as bad.

I then checked the fuel pump pressure at the drain tee and had 4-5 lbs. I guess the supply/lift pump is ok?

I think the Turbulator Fuel Saver needs to come out. It is not much bigger than the fuel line and is probably restricting the fuel supply. GM had no idea what it was either. I will have to find a way to fix the line once it is removed.

What do you think might be causing the truck to still blow out smoke even though it is not nearly as bad?

Then, I tried checking the following......................

I took off the top half of the intake and cleaned all the soot out of it and I also cleaned the lines to the Crankcase Depression Regulator Valve while I had the intake apart.

I believe I need to install a new one as I noticed oil in the turbo and intake.

After putting it all back together, it still blows black smoke under load and a puff of black when I start the truck.

I checked the vacuum again, just before the wastegate solenoid and it was rapidly fluctuating between about 8 and 14 (the other day it was a steady 23").

Then I checked it after the wastegate solenoid (new part) and it was rapidly fluctuating between about 12 and 18.

Then I checked it after the first EGR Solenoid (new part) and I had 0 vacuum.

Of course the second EGR Solenoid (new part) was 0 vacuum as well.

The EGR Valve and the MAP Sensor line were 0 vacuum as well.

Should there not be vacuum all the way to the MAP Sensor and EGR Valve?

Why am I not getting vacuum after the new EGR Solenoids?

The Solenoids in the truck when I got it were front to back, wastegate(green dot) then the EGR solenoid(white dot) and then the EGR solenoid (red dot). Is this the correct order?

Thanks for any and all feedback you can provide.
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You have a boost gauge? I am not smart with these yet, was just wondering.
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
Silverado6.5TD
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Hi, no I don't have one yet. I would like to put in the triple pillar gauge set at some point.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Take off that fuel saver POS and get the truck back to stock...

AFAIK - the EGR system does not function until you are cruising at highway speeds....could explain why you have no vacuum after the EGR solenoid at idle...

With the engine idling you should not be able to move the wastegate arm at all (unless you are Superman - or perhaps jifaire)...

The order of the solenoids and the vac lines is printed on a sticker on the fan shroud...make sure everything is hooked up correctly....

The way you explain the fluctuating reading from the vac pump makes me think you may have a cracked vac line....pull all of the lines and take a look....put them in a large pail of water (or the bathtub) and blow through one end....see if any bubbles come out along the submerged vac line (obviously you should only see bubbles coming from the submerged end of the vac hose)...
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi, I will get rid of that Turbulator Fuel Saver POS as soon as I can.

My truck is missing the vacuum routing take on the rad support, but I did track one down.

Unfortunately, it does not tell me which color is what solenoid. I put the new ones on in the same order, but who knows if the last ones were put in the right spot.

The wastegate is definately in the right spot. It is the two EGR solenoids that I am not sure of.

Thanks for the info, I will get on this soon.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks like the white dot is in the middle...



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Old 04-30-2007, 09:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you find your turbo waste gate vacuum is ok drop the cat converter from the turbo down pipe and look in it and see if the screen is clogged with soot. Try driving it before reconnecting it (the neignbors won't shoot you). It's really not that loud after going thru the turbo.

I've seen a lot of them clogged and causing black smoke due to back pressure.

I really sounds like your waste gate isn't working.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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check the vacuum lines and vacuum pump, sounds like yo got issues in there.

also remove, clean and reinstall BOTH ends of all your battery cables. Also, on the rear of the pass side head should be 2 smaller wires bolted to the head, these are important ground wires, probably brown and black...mine were twistered around each other when I got my truck, not sure if that was a stock thing or not.

It looks like you went through most of the diag stuff already, but just to have a short and sweet list, look in the stickies up top of the forum for the Diag checklist. Go through it and post the results.
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Same issues I am having. I replaced the turbo control module on top of the plenum. The truck ran great for a day and the next day had the same problems you are having. Good luck, I will update you if I figure out how to fix this problem
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The vacuum line that goes to the wastegate actuator was broken. There was a sleeve overtop the break, so it was hard to know or see is was busted.

I took the line of the actuator and was going to blow through it when all of a sudden I pulled the end right out.

I did a quick fix (Black Tape) to see if that fixed the linkage problem and it did.

I was no longer able to move the linkage when it was running. I took it for a spin down the road and it had lots of power and only blew a bit of black smoke under load.

I turned around and then when I was accelerating, it pumped out black smoke to no end and had no power at all. I checked the wastegate linkage again and I still could not move it.

I am stumped at why I can put three new solenoids in, fix the vacuum leak and it makes a difference for a few minutes.

Just before fixing the wastegate vacuum line, I checked the vacuum from the vacuum pump line where it tees into the wastegate and the first EGR valve.

At the end of the tee before the wastegate solenoid, I had steady 23" vacuum. At the end of the tee before the EGR, it was bouncing back and forth so fast I could not even read the gauge.

How can I get to totally opposite reading from two ends of a tee that is only connected to the vaccum pump?
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