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Old 02-20-2007, 10:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
Fishnfool
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Bad Ignition Switch?

Back in 2003, my 96 6.5 was having an intermittent stalling/no start problem. Truck would either die while driving then not want to re-start or would just not start - it would crank over but not run. A peculiar symptom associated was that I would get lose dash warning/idiot lights upon stall or when truck would not want to start.

I found that if I slammed the steering wheel up & down through the full tilt range, sometimes the dash would light back up and the truck would start & run. Was told by someone over on The Diesel Page when I was a member there that I needed to replace a part of the ignition switch assembly, a p/n 26036311 and that should fix the problem. Got the part from my local Chevy dealer and had it installed and the problem was fixed.

Fast forward to 2007

Truck is once again randomly dieing with associated loss of dash indicator lights and refusal to re-start. This time, jarring the steering wheel column seems to do no good and the truck will only randomly start if the key is turned on and off or I leave it sit. Indicator lights will sometimes sit there and flicker faintly at times.

Does it sound like I need to replace the actual ignition switch or ? The part I replaced before is listed as on GMPartsDirect.com as the Ignition Buzzer Switch whereas AC Delco lists it as p/n D1481C, Ignition Starter Switch. I've read here on the boards that the Chevrolet design for this part sucks - could this same part be failing again after 4 years?

I really need to pin this down and fix the problem as losing power while driving in rush hour traffic on the freeway or towing my boat is not good as losing power steering and most of my braking power in these situations could lead to a very bad situation.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
gmctd
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Suspect the FSD\PMD this time, but go thru your wiring harnesses and battery cables for connectivity - oxidation \corrosion, loose, etc - the battery posts, the main harness grounds at the passenger-side rear intake manifold stud.

If you got aftermarket, may be the ign switch, but check the other electrical stuff first.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
Fishnfool
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Besides the manifold ground, are there others i should check? On the battery cables, how can you tell if they have internal corrosion? I've done the recommended battery post mods and will pull everything apart & re-clean with baking soda.

I've got Bill Heath's Super FSD setup so I'm covered if that turns out to be bad - would a failing FSD cause me to loose my dash warning lights though?
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Last edited by Fishnfool; 02-20-2007 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 02-21-2007, 03:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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quote"
Truck is once again randomly dieing with associated loss of dash indicator lights and refusal to re-start."quote


I would put my money on the ignition switch again, I don't think the PMD/FSD controls the dash indicator lights.
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That's one of the benefits of keeping your sig up to date, folks - any mention of location of FSD\PMD, or battery-post upgrades, or any info pertinent to diagnosis\troubleshooting.

Don't suspect the FSD\PMD at this time - got your ground in the correct position?

But do do the wiring\grounds checkout - move the harnesses around, in position, try to force the intermittent connection.

If you winter-ize the electrics and the symptom still occurs, suspect the switch.

But, that would be a first, in my experience - you indicated getting the switch from GM, but, as the aftermarket copies are flimsy versions of oem, they would be suspect in a case like this.
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tdp member #1505 - GMTDScan Tech, Autoenginuity help on-board......
96 Dodge 3500 cc 2wd drw 3.54 6sp......89 GMC 3500 cc 6wd drw 4.10 4L80E 205
5.9CTD 12v TST#10 plt SBC 13"............6.5TD, EFI, DSG, Max-E-Tork v2.0
DODGE makes it - CUMMINS shakes it.....Charge-air cooled, 3.5" ss exhaust
6 in a row makes it go..........................5000"lbs torque to the ground
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmctd;1607451;
That's one of the benefits of keeping your sig up to date, folks - any mention of location of FSD\PMD, or battery-post upgrades, or any info pertinent to diagnosis\troubleshooting.

Don't suspect the FSD\PMD at this time - got your ground in the correct position?

But do do the wiring\grounds checkout - move the harnesses around, in position, try to force the intermittent connection.

If you winter-ize the electrics and the symptom still occurs, suspect the switch.

But, that would be a first, in my experience - you indicated getting the switch from GM, but, as the aftermarket copies are flimsy versions of oem, they would be suspect in a case like this.
Are Sorensen switches any good? Are they aftermarket?
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
gmctd
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Best thing in any case is compare what you get with what you pull out - for switches, oem contacts are larger, the plastic is thicker, the metal bracketry is heavier.

The switch is a known trouble spot, so the cheaper stuff won't give even oem service, there.

Would be even worse if switching a bunch of electrical add-ons, but first thing to suspect is the vehicle wiring, as that is well known for annual gremlin infestation.
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tdp member #1505 - GMTDScan Tech, Autoenginuity help on-board......
96 Dodge 3500 cc 2wd drw 3.54 6sp......89 GMC 3500 cc 6wd drw 4.10 4L80E 205
5.9CTD 12v TST#10 plt SBC 13"............6.5TD, EFI, DSG, Max-E-Tork v2.0
DODGE makes it - CUMMINS shakes it.....Charge-air cooled, 3.5" ss exhaust
6 in a row makes it go..........................5000"lbs torque to the ground
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There's a simple test to see if it's the ignition switch. Check for power at the ecm fuses with the key "on". If you've got power, then the switch is good and you can save the $200. As gmctd said, check the ground at the pass. side rear manifold studs. This is where the pcm grounds to the motor. Also check the ground connection from motor to battery. You need to pay close attentino to the passenger side ground cable as well as the body ground.

I've had same symptoms that you describe. One time it was a bad PCM. The other time it was a bad ground for the pcm (rear manifold stud on pass side). It was very difficult to diagnose when I had the bad pcm because there was no ryme or reason as to when it would stall.

When the truck is running, wiggle the ground wires and see if you can cause the engine to stumble or stall.

Good luck with it. Electrical gremlins are a test of patience.
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
Fishnfool
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmctd;1607451;
you indicated getting the switch from GM, but, as the aftermarket copies are flimsy versions of oem, they would be suspect in a case like this.
I thought Delco made the electrical parts for Chevrolet? Is AC Delco not the same as the part you would buy from a Chevy dealer?
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
gmctd
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Yes, oem DELCO or DELPHI would be correct replacement, but would be hard to imagine that a new oem replacement would crater within several years.

That is why I suggested looking elsewhere - your symptoms are not identical, where it will only crank after sitting awhile.

Batteries, connections, even a bad starter would seem more like it, now, but winter-time usually brings on wiring problems, starting with oxidized\corroded battery connections, etc.

I'd try that stuff, first.
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Please include your vehicle details in your signature line. Did you read the FAQ's and search before posting?

tdp member #1505 - GMTDScan Tech, Autoenginuity help on-board......
96 Dodge 3500 cc 2wd drw 3.54 6sp......89 GMC 3500 cc 6wd drw 4.10 4L80E 205
5.9CTD 12v TST#10 plt SBC 13"............6.5TD, EFI, DSG, Max-E-Tork v2.0
DODGE makes it - CUMMINS shakes it.....Charge-air cooled, 3.5" ss exhaust
6 in a row makes it go..........................5000"lbs torque to the ground
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