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M1010 ambulance motor.

4K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  old skool luvr 
#1 ·
What is your thoughts? three hour drive, military 6.2, three hundred fifty dollars, 30,000 miles on it. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Auto part
Vehicle Auto part Engine Car



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#3 ·
Looks good on top - no oil leaks. How's the underside?
Can you turn it over with a breaker bar?
 
#5 ·
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#10 ·
Is there anything special about the military 6.2?


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...and thanks to the meat heads who worked on em, usually at least one GP tip has been sent through the engine, nothing to be concerned about though.

Make sure the starter has a bracket on the forward end, that is bolted up to the block, not there....? Get One!!!
 
#8 ·
J-code.

- different intake
- no egr
- slightly higher hp/torque rating
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
pull the pan and inspect for cracks, or pay less....
 
#12 ·
An absolute must under all circumstances.

Saved me the headace of over paying on a six5 parts engine.
 
#13 ·
I'd pull the pan and make sure the blocks not cracked. I don't like buying expensive scrap metal.
 
#14 ·
Neither do I. can you give me a picture of what i am looking for when y'all say cracked?
 
#16 ·
got it, thanks man. just needed to know what to look for, I doubt there will be anything wrong with this one seeing as it only has 30,000 miles on it.
 
#18 ·
got it, thanks man. just needed to know what to look for, I doubt there will be anything wrong with this one seeing as it only has 30,000 miles on it.
Famous last words......:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

The cracks are easily visible once you pry off the pan.

GL.
 
#19 ·
We like to take a rag and a propane torch with us, wipe with rag, and slightly heat the web. This will cause any oil in the crack to bubble out, and is immediately visible. The millage of the motor, does not always determine whether it is cracked or not. How well it runs also is not a good indicator, as we have pulled the pan (to install a "stiffy") in a freshly rebuilt motor from Canada Post, and were surprised to find massive cracking (able to remove a piece of the main bearing web). This motor had the cracks "circled" with a yellow machinist's marker, yet was rebuilt, and was one of the best running motors from the 5 we purchased that time. Ends up we paid for scrap......well, we salvaged everything but the block.....LOL.....J&J.
 
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#21 ·
This is why I didn't bother pulling the pan on the replacement motor I just put in my K20, if it blows it blows....
I have no idea of any history on the motor other than it fired right up and sounded good on the ground
 
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#22 ·
Thanks guys, might be able to get the motor this week end or the next my mom's explorer needed a timing chain replacement and as it turns out, it has a timing chain in the back, so we had to pull the motor to get to it so that took longer than a week end and we're still tracking down parts for it. This is why I hate ford.


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#23 ·
Thanks guys, might be able to get the motor this week end or the next my mom's explorer needed a timing chain replacement and as it turns out, it has a timing chain in the back, so we had to pull the motor to get to it so that took longer than a week end and we're still tracking down parts for it. This is why I hate ford.
Should i see about sending you a window sticker? :hehe:
 
#28 ·
Ironically, my best friends folks owned a late 90's exploder and that thing just wouldnt die! It had about 240k on the odo, then the odo broke, they drove the piss out of it and probably put another 50-100k on it after, then sent it to their family in Alaska to die with the rest of their old vehicles. Last I heard it's still going strong but a little rusty. Other than that, screw ford :p
 
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