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what did you do to your 6.2 today?

190K views 2K replies 96 participants last post by  dieselolds 
#1 ·
Not on this forum that much so I don't know if they have something like this already but I stole this from the VW forums
so let's hear what you did to your 6.2 today
 
#1,075 ·
Another day, more tinkering. Didn't feel like crawling up in the truck to fix the moon visor and doing the cab seal.
Finished the seals on the topper, re-polished the air deflector. glued down and tightened down the luggage rack.

Then I brought the window seal in the house and scrubbed it down in the sink. When in dried in the garage, saw all the spots to clean again.

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Cleaned up the drivers side window and blew all the dirt out of the tracks, then installed.

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The passenger side, probably have to find a replacement. It has a major cracked pane and of course its curved glass. The drivers was just as dirty as this before I cleaned it. Tomorrow, hit up NAPA and see if their well nuts have a similar height to the top flange. The Home Depot and Dorman ones look too thick. Then I can put the air deflector back on.

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#1,076 ·
Then I brought the window seal in the house and scrubbed it down in the sink. When in dried in the garage, saw all the spots to clean again.

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I do that all the time...See something that need attention and either in looking away to get the tool I lose it or if I bring it somewhere the different light or different light angle makes me lose it. Bring it back and repeat the process
 
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#1,077 ·
Got the well nuts (thanks Jeff :thumb:) after first thinking I would have to wait a few weeks. New package, 3 instead of 10, twice the price.



What a PIA to install :banghead: You cant crush them down and pre-mount like crush/jack nuts. They spring back and are re-usable, if the rubber is still soft. The screws and threads have to be perfectly clean. Any crud or adhesives makes the threads bind and the well nut just spins. They need to tighten a bit easily, so they seat and grip, then they can crush down.
That wouldn't matter, but the whole deflector is assembled and mounted under tension. So I had to disassemble, mount the brackets, get the well nuts to all spread and tighten. Then mount the deflector in the middle, loosen off the side brackets so they would line up and tighten everything down. Its tight now. :bow:

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Didn't get around to the cab. Went on a long coffee can search for a body plug. Mine has the stock hole in the cab roof for an antenna wire. Wanted to find the 1/2" plug I have saved somewhere for it before I washed all the dust and dirt off the roof.

Switched out my boost gauge. The POS Princess Auto one with selectable light colors was Censored me off. I wanted it on blue, every time I lower the hi beams, it reset to green. put a similar Chinese one on with a single blue LED.
 
#1,078 ·
keep this pace up and you'll be out of a project by this spring :coolnana::chicken:

You know you're doing good when I hit up both the dancing bananana and the crazy chicken!!
 
#1,079 · (Edited)
keep this pace up and you'll be out of a project by this spring :coolnana::chicken:

You know you're doing good when I hit up both the dancing bananana and the crazy chicken!!
Thanks Sean, when spring comes, yard work and stuff. And some driving and enjoying it, we hope. Still gotta come up with a passenger window.
 
#1,080 ·
passenger window....Some saran wrap???
 
#1,081 · (Edited)
Pffft, just when I was starting to like you. :rolleyes:
What's funny, is that is what will happen. Will mask some poly on so it can move outside. No point putting a window in to pull it.


I should contact the guy 2 hrs away that had one I was supposed to get in the spring. Just didn't like the idea of $100 on a window, but I know a glass shop will be more.

The one I have is usable, just not thrilled with putting a big obvious crack on a clean topper. The drivers has a crack, but its not very noticeable.
 
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#1,082 ·
Another day or three, another nightmare. Arn't old vehicles fun!! :Insane:

The Lund Moon Visor wasn't really installed, it was just up there with a few bolts to fix later. When I tried to install it, some of the bolts cross threaded and the nutserts started to spin, so I knew I was screwed. :shake: Hard stainless bolt can be an issue threading. :hole:

The problem was with angles and curved of the roof lining up with holes in the visor. I got it off yesterday, had to use a 3/8'' impact to spin some of the bolts free. None were in tight or far, just to where there was an issue.

Checked them today, 3 are good, 3 drilled out and 5 a had to grind the lip off with a small air grinder. I then enlarged the holes in the visor to give more leeway. Went to NAPA and got some jack-nuts and rubberized washers to replace some.

Now the issue. Two in the middle are close to the windshield frame. They cant drop down anywhere, there is no room. I need to get them out. So now I'm slowly grinding around the lip and crush shoulder with a Dremel and my cheap fittings. I found it easier to hold them sideways with a pick inserted than the pliers. They kept jumping free. :shake: The holes are already drilled larger for the jack-nuts.

Hand Finger Fish

The line isn't a scratch, its a fluorescent light reflection. I think I will install it loosely in the center this time, them do the ends. Thinking that I should partially set the jack-nuts, then tighten down on them through the aligned visor.

Unless someone has better suggestions for the nutsert removal and visor install.
 
#1,086 ·
Unless someone has better suggestions for the nutsert removal and visor install.
My inner Rainman has always hated those things because screws there invite water seep from the top to the bottom. (Uh-oh, Definitely got water in the cab. Definitely.) So if I had to have one, I'd probably want to plug weld the mounting holes to the cab. I know it's too late for that without some repair first, but... IDK. That's what I'd want to try.
 
#1,083 ·
Well I'd put it all together with sheetmetal screws so you can probably disregard my advice

What in the f^%& is a moon visor anyway?
 
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#1,084 ·
Well I'd put it all together with sheetmetal screws so you can probably disregard my advice

What in the f^%& is a moon visor anyway?
The big sunvisor over the windshield.

Can't do sheet metal screws, its drilled out at the holes. Trying to avoid the rust, leak pull out issue of them.
 
#1,085 ·
Put in new door jamb switches! I got spoiled by the S10, when the doors open the dome light would actually come on... So I spent the 10 bucks and got new door jamb switches. All is well and good now!
 
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#1,088 ·
awesome Nate. I never realized how easy that was to do and that they were self adjusting, till I did it.
 
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#1,089 ·
I guess plan B would be JB Weld or some other type epoxy around the mounting screws, something other than the rubber washers, something that would harden as it seals up. The rubber will split sooner or later. I don't know, I'd have to stew on it more. These things rust easy enough on their own around the bottom of the windshield.
 
#1,090 ·
I guess plan B would be JB Weld or some other type epoxy around the mounting screws, something other than the rubber washers, something that would harden as it seals up. The rubber will split sooner or later. I don't know, I'd have to stew on it more. These things rust easy enough on their own around the bottom of the windshield.
I was thinking the Well Nuts a used on the topper for the air deflector would be good for the sealing aspect. But then I'm not sure if they are made to grip the thinness of sheet metal, and if the metal would cut into the rubber when they are holding against the wind.
 
#1,091 · (Edited)
If you have your headliner in, I'd take it out and go ahead and drill through the inner skin in the cab. Do it from the top, of course. You can enlarge the hole a little on the inside to help get the nutsert remnants out. That'll also help two ways with the jack nuts, you won't have to partially crush them in the visor lip and once they're installed, you can access the backside to seal them up with an epoxy or whatever you prefer. I know it sounds like unnecessary damage, but in for a penny/in for a pound. You've got the outer skin drilled, may as well drill the inner so you can seal it up from the inside and have more peace of mind they won't leak water around the windshield at the top. The headliner will be your access panel, it'll hide the holes but be easy to remove to check things or repair/reseal as needed.
 
#1,094 ·
If you have your headliner in, I'd take it out and go ahead and drill through the inner skin in the cab. Do it from the top, of course. You can enlarge the hole a little on the inside to help get the nutsert remnants out. That'll also help two ways with the jack nuts, you won't have to partially crush them in the visor lip and once they're installed, you can access the backside to seal them up with an epoxy or whatever you prefer. I know it sounds like unnecessary damage, but in for a penny/in for a pound. You've got the outer skin drilled, may as well drill the inner so you can seal it up from the inside and have more peace of mind they won't leak water around the windshield at the top. The headliner will be your access panel, it'll hide the holes but be easy to remove to check things or repair/reseal as needed.

This was my first thought, and honestly, the absolute last resort. The interior is in and that headliner is finally in and holding properly after being out a half dozen times. The inner roof is covered in foam Dynamat type stuff that just doesn't peel off, as well as a lot of wiring for the LCD mirror.

At the windshield frame, there is another skin or layer, its not just the roof and inner, so getting access is a little more complicated. I might try some Seal All instead to water proof them, since I have a tube.
 
#1,093 ·
Yes. With lights
 
#1,095 ·
Use windshield urethane , put it on the out side then put the nut-cert in the hole, it will also help hold it from turning.
 
#1,102 · (Edited)
Success. Grinding was going OK, it was the holding that was the issue. Got some longer mini-needle and offset pliers. They were better, but not enough, so I thought, why not try bolt. If I can get a thread in, I can hold it on angle and that worked. Ground around them till they popped out.

Screw Fastener Auto part Nut Metal



Good idea :idea: Got the jack-nuts set, but not totally tight, so they have room to line up with bolts before bolted good.

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Bolted it light in the center, then made sure the ends lined up. Had to slot a few, but made it work and used urethane around the nuts when bolted down good. Don't mind all the dust, its from all the body work sanding. Couldn't really wash it with holes in the roof.


Yeah, i could see Rich rolling up in his Jimmy done up just like that
What is they smok'in Willis :Insane:

Now back to the whole point of getting this done. Putting the seal on the rear of the cab, so the topper can go on. Have the lip all wiped down and starting to loosen trim, so seal can tuck under. If things go good, topper will be on tomorrow. Thinking I should drill and mount the alignment pins in the rear top of the quarter panels. just found them might as well use them. :bounce:
 
#1,101 ·
Yeah, i could see Rich rolling up in his Jimmy done up just like that
 
#1,103 ·
Cab seal on. Undid the rear interior panel and installed the topper alignment studs. Hoisted up the topper, but my strap selection seems to be missing a few so I got it lifted about 6" short for the lifted truck height.

Took 3 of us to get it aligned, as we had to fight the cab seal being tight and getting pinched, holding one side high.

Don't mind the finger prints, the seal was lubed to seal better, so it got on hands. :bounce:

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Topper interior lights, illuminate like daylight now. :idea:

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#1,104 · (Edited)
Looks better than when it rolled out of the showroom I bet

Like, Like and triple like. I love that blue so much!! ANd all the chrome and badges and whatnot are the perfect amount of accent rather than taking away from it. The topper goes perfectly as well!

Nicest Jimmy/Blazer I've seen in a long long time
 
#1,106 ·
Looks better than when it rolled out of the showroom I bet

Like, Like and triple like. I love that blue so much!! ANd all the chrome and badges and whatnot are the perfect amount of accent rather than taking away from it. The topper goes perfectly as well!

Nicest Jimmy/Blazer I've seen in a long long time
Dude!! It looks Censored sweet...

Luster on the topper is perfect...
I can't wait for a nice sunny day photo shoot.

Thanks guys, and I agree, the satin on the topper is perfect.
I still need to tinker with the tailgate. Fix the safety switch, put the tire carrier on and a couple little pieces. And put some interior stuff back together from doing this latest work.
Then I need to put the body side molding on and I think I want a pinstripe to break up the blue. I'm thinking of an orange/silver to match all the lettering on the badges.

Then.... the winch bumper refurbishing. Probably the same color as the topper, maybe a hair more gloss.
 
#1,109 · (Edited)
I can't wait for a nice sunny day photo shoot.
You asked..

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My grandson came to visit.

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I've been wondering if he'll go scouting for moose in the Jimmy or if it will be an asphalt queen
That's what I originally built it for. To go through the logging roads and trails and find a moose. But not butcher it through the trees.

passenger window....Some saran wrap???
just for you, dunno why I blurred it. :rolleyes: Oh ya, when I moved it this morning, there was a puddle at the drivers front. Took a quick look in there and didn't see anything from the axle seal. More things to fix. :banghead:

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#1,108 ·
I've been wondering if he'll go scouting for moose in the Jimmy or if it will be an asphalt queen
 
#1,110 ·
What's up bros! Had two broken bellhousing mounting bolts inside the block. Drilled them out and they came out easy and clean. Had to be careful not to damage the block threads. Mounted the engine up on a stand I bought. Stand is literally 5h1ting itself from the girth of the iron block 6.2 v8. It doesn't even have the heads on. I put the old tire underneath the engine because the stand looks like it's going to taco before sunrise. Turned it upside down to get a good look at the bottom end and can't see any cracks. Am I blind?
 
#1,112 ·
No cracks? :thumb:
 
#1,116 ·
take a propane torch, warm up the mains a bit, any cracks will show with some oil in them. sometimes you can rub some chalk dust on the mains and see them when the oil leach's out.
 
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#1,114 ·
use your finger nail?
 
#1,118 ·
Managed to stick my head under the Jimmy today to check out the fluid dribble on the left front.
Been busy with kids and grandkids visiting. Then son came up with an R&R job on his VW rear axle.

Suspicion's confirmed, its not the axle seal. Appears to be the banjo bolt on the brake line. So the simplest fix, no horrible seal job or caliper replacement. :bounce:
 
#1,121 ·
Just been tinkering the last bit and putting things back together. Played with my tailgate latch's and strikers to get it to close at the right depth. Fixed the latch safety switch and took the window motor apart and gave it some service.
Today, I messed with mounting the tire carrier, which meant putting on some body moulding and installing bolts in tight confines of the tailgate. Under glass, window tracks, regulator and dyna-mat.

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Got it all installed, but need to play with washer alignment a bit, its a hair tight on the latch alignment.

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Still need to finish putting the interior panels back in after bolting the topper on. Then I started cutting a piece of carpet to mount on the tailgate. It will stop the paint from getting all chewed up with gate use. It will also clean up the inside. When you look into the back, you see this nicely carpeted and finished interior, with a metal tailgate that doesn't match. I will dye the carpet to hopefully match the existing. I have some left over from matching the side panel carpet to the new floor carpet.

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#1,122 ·
Home stretch
 
#1,123 · (Edited)
Renamed: What did Rich do to his six2 today:HiHi: lookin really good i like the floods. You got them on a switch or just with the reverse lights? I like a switch myself. No inspection needed just slap a bowtie on there and drive it.
 
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#1,124 · (Edited)
Renamed: What did Rich do to his six2 today:HiHi: lookin really good i like the floods. You got them on a switch or just with the reverse lights? I like a switch myself. No inspection needed just slap a bowtie on there and drive it.
On a switch and a relay. I would never want them on with the reverse, just on when I need them.

Dyed my piece of carpet, it came out darker than what I wanted, but its not as dark as the shitty pic. (boy did they suck today)

before..

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after... need to get more double sided carpet tape. :whistle:

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