cooling issue, - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Lounge (0) Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > GM Diesel Engines > 6.2L Diesel Engine
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto LoansInsurance

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-20-2013, 03:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
smackzed
Mad (Sean) Max
 
smackzed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,219
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

DieselPlace.com Premium Member Member

cooling issue,

So I've put in the 3rd t-stat since early dec. None were getting up to heat and the last one just totally failed driving last night. temps wouldn't go above 50c/120F or so. No heat from the heater just outside temps, luckily it was a few degrees above freezing.

So put in another t-stat today and it seems to be working, not crazy about it cause it gets up a bit passed 12 o'clock then drops down to 11:30 then back to 12:30 and back down rather than keeping a regular temp.

Anyway, I've checked the upper rad hose maybe a dozen times. It's alkways super soft, like there's no coolant in it and it's just barely warm. Am i just always missing when the t-stat is open?

Also the heater still isn't really gving off heat. It's luke warm. I touch the one hose and it's hot, the other just lukewarm which tells me that the core is plugged. Sound right? If I reverse the lines do you think that might unblock the obstruction (I'll run the out flow into a pail.)
__________________
'87 GMC R2500 380,000km
AM/FM Radio -rebar except for engine trans and misc suspension parts

'90 GMC R3500 srw 3+3 280 000kms
CD player that eats CDs
No matter what Dieselplace may say, I am not a diesel technician, nor expert or specialist. Just a cheap guy with old truck that needs to run
Offline  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-20-2013, 04:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
Diaric
Administrator
Spam Assassin
The Old Crank
 
Diaric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bentley , Alberta
Posts: 22,968
iTrader Score: 2 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Alberta Coal Rollers Member

DieselPlace.com Lifetime Premium Member

i think your missing when the tstat opens. the way your stat is operating with the fluctuations, sounds like a cheap stat, my dodge does something similar.
Id try flushing the heater core with a hose and see what sort of floe, if any you can get.
this will give you a visual of whether it flows instead of guessing. heater cores are cheap and not that bad to change on these.
__________________
1987 6.2l Jimmy , being restored,4" lift, 35 mudders 1993 W350 5.9 , custom stretched cab, duelly flatdeck
2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4320diesel View Post
well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkstrong View Post
Diaric wins thread derailment......
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Sierra 2500 View Post
Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
6.2 FACTS AND ANSWERS Click Here
My Restoration Thread Click Here
Alberta Coal Roller Member #2
Online   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 04:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
smackzed
Mad (Sean) Max
 
smackzed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,219
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

DieselPlace.com Premium Member Member

yeah it is a cheap one. Motomaster so that should tell you something, but hey crappy trash was the only place open on a sunday, I'll give them that. And the delco one I got from NApa only lasted a month. And I haven't been driving much at all sice befor christmas. Haven't even gone through a full tank of fuel on the new motor

It just seems so weird to me that I've checked it so may times and it's never been open. But it's pretty cold out with 70kmh/45 mph winds so it probably won't open too often or for very long.

Good idea about using a hose to check for flow. Coolant costs a lot more

Edit. I tried using some RTV sealant instead of just the gasket this time and I'm wondering if that's why this one is working and the others weren't. Also this one has a spring on it, the other were little compact ones. When I checked rock auto to make sure that I hadn't gotten something weird there was one other stat that had a visible spring but it was nowhere near the size of this one
__________________
'87 GMC R2500 380,000km
AM/FM Radio -rebar except for engine trans and misc suspension parts

'90 GMC R3500 srw 3+3 280 000kms
CD player that eats CDs
No matter what Dieselplace may say, I am not a diesel technician, nor expert or specialist. Just a cheap guy with old truck that needs to run

Last edited by smackzed; 01-20-2013 at 04:36 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 04:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
NO TREAD ON ME
Diesel Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Fremont, Ne.
Posts: 62
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Im new to the 6.2, but mine wasnt very warm, so I put a bleeder on it, kinda looks like a funnel with a radiator cap on it, let it run about 20 minutes and it sucked in about
a quart of antifreeze and obviously pushed out air, cant hardly run it on hi now without getting hot in the truck, never checked the temps of the hoses before hand, the cars we work on are prone to get air locks in the system,and thats what we do to burp em,some times we have to raise the front end also to get the air to rise, also is your cable switching it from hot to cold, didnt really look at mine to see if it was mechanical, but on the car I learned how to drive on(a 59 ford) I had to manually open the heater core stop valve? In order to get the water to flow, then Id shut it down once it warmed up outside. Good Luck, NoTread
__________________
1988 Chevy military 20 Suburban, 6.2, A.T., 4x4, 100lb Doberman alarm, War Wagon
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 04:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
happypunch
Diesel Master
 
happypunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 2,208
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diaric View Post
heater cores are cheap and not that bad to change on these.
Unless you are like me and break 25 year old brittle plastic pieces when doing it

My old ford explorer was stupid easy to fix, since I was able to do it in 45 minutes and most of that time was trying to get warm from the freezing temps

I had a tough time with the suburban trying to open the heater box to expose the heater core without breaking anything else... At least its not like the newer chevy's where you have to drop the whole dash!
__________________
1987 V20 Suburban 6.2 diesel
GM-3 Turbo
Built 4l60
3.73's With 285/75/16's

Gave it another chance at life and enjoying every minute
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 04:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
smackzed
Mad (Sean) Max
 
smackzed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,219
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

DieselPlace.com Premium Member Member

I've been thinking that maybe it needs to be bled but I always thought that caused an overheat issue. It could be that the thing is stuck on cold. No idea where I'd check that.
__________________
'87 GMC R2500 380,000km
AM/FM Radio -rebar except for engine trans and misc suspension parts

'90 GMC R3500 srw 3+3 280 000kms
CD player that eats CDs
No matter what Dieselplace may say, I am not a diesel technician, nor expert or specialist. Just a cheap guy with old truck that needs to run
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 04:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
turbonator
Frieghtliner the bull....
 
turbonator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: lac superieur, quebec
Posts: 6,508
iTrader Score: 22 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Quebec/Labrador Diesel Place Chapter Member

Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
Unless you are like me and break 25 year old brittle plastic pieces when doing it

My old ford explorer was stupid easy to fix, since I was able to do it in 45 minutes and most of that time was trying to get warm from the freezing temps

I had a tough time with the suburban trying to open the heater box to expose the heater core without breaking anything else... At least its not like the newer chevy's where you have to drop the whole dash!
our heater in rattle-puss is so-so, did so much to avoid overheating that is does not even make heat until half way up the big hill at our entrance/exit, and then is only luke-warm.... when the time comes to yank the dash to work on the heater( it is on the list this summer) i am going to put a 1990's jetta heater in, our jetta heater gets so hot and blows so strong that you could drive it on the highway with the window half down and still not be cold, when it blows on the floor the ducting gets so hot it is uncomfortable to touch... and the actual heater box is so small 2 would probably fit in place of the gm one...LOL...
__________________
1992 gmc 3500 drw, rclb..... very, very full of goodies
1986 jetta IDITI, some goodies
1988 swb test truck, for testing
acolytes of the "aggressive buddist's" principles since march 13th 2014
building power, "Sanford and Son style"

under development:
-MEGA-SQUIRTZ H.O. injectors
-big-bore DB-2 pumps (.350",.370")
-supercharger kit
-center mount turbo kit with tubular manifolds....
and much more.....
Jeff & jim....

Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
NO TREAD ON ME
Diesel Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Fremont, Ne.
Posts: 62
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

In my old cars youd just follow the hot,cold cable off the dash, it runs to the heater hose that connects to the heater core and opens or closes the flow of water, they were mechanical, dont know on these, Id have some where Id lube em good and work em back and forth and theyd start (kinda) working again, It helps to have a buddy moving the lever as you say hot/cold as your tracking it down, however with a soft hose, kinda sounds like air in the system, the cars we see that have crappy heat rarely over heat, just crappy heat, and more so at idle, we bleed em for 30 minutes and there on there way. Mine also seems alot warmer with my foot on the throttle, but my CTD is that way also, so just figured thats the way it was.
__________________
1988 Chevy military 20 Suburban, 6.2, A.T., 4x4, 100lb Doberman alarm, War Wagon
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 06:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
NO TREAD ON ME
Diesel Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Fremont, Ne.
Posts: 62
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Ok went out fired up the 6.2, let her warm up, asked my wife to go outside and rev up the engine while I checked the hose to see if it was soft.... she said tell the guy to buy a coat, Its cold out(10 degrres) I said his defrost isnt working??? So she went out reved it up while I felt the hose.... mine was soft to(thats what she said), but blowing hot air. Made me think while I was jacking with mine, I noticed a giant air leak pushing air out of the airbox while my fan was on. Where my ac lines went in to on the firewall under the hood. I stuffed the cracks with styrofoam and vacume line thinking Ill go back to that and seal it right later, Hate to see a person or a dog cold. No Tread
__________________
1988 Chevy military 20 Suburban, 6.2, A.T., 4x4, 100lb Doberman alarm, War Wagon
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2013, 07:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
smackzed
Mad (Sean) Max
 
smackzed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,219
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

DieselPlace.com Premium Member Member

I didn't look for the selector wires but I did bleed the rad, I think. parked with nose up hill
removed rad cap and let it run for 15 minutes. went back and filled some more (rad was low from doing the t-stat and I didn't have enough at home to fill at the time) run another 10 m ins went back and filled, let run 10mins and didn't need any more.

Heat no different. One heater hose hot, one hose cold. It is lukewarm, enough that I can drive without gloves on and hopefully enough for defrost. We'll see. was too dark to do much by the time the burping was done
__________________
'87 GMC R2500 380,000km
AM/FM Radio -rebar except for engine trans and misc suspension parts

'90 GMC R3500 srw 3+3 280 000kms
CD player that eats CDs
No matter what Dieselplace may say, I am not a diesel technician, nor expert or specialist. Just a cheap guy with old truck that needs to run
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
01 cooling issue? bfoster129 Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) 11 07-25-2008 04:46 PM
Cooling issue on 454 TBI FordCrusherGT GM Gassers 12 07-18-2007 09:41 PM
LBZ Cooling issue bigobutch Duramax Third Generation: 2006-2007.5 (LBZ & LLY) 23 07-18-2007 01:49 PM
WTF? Cooling issue chevotafan GM Gassers 3 11-29-2006 05:33 PM
Do I have a cooling issue? frysl Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) 2 07-15-2006 10:31 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:29 AM.


Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0