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Old 01-16-2013, 03:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
SixTwo
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Getting ready to do my first swap - what would you do?

Specifically, what would you do to a 10-40k Hummer engine? It's going into my 1983 K5 4x4, already a N/A 6.2. I'm sure everyone here is familiar w/ Ted's Trucks N stuff engines.

Reason for swap: I broke the crankshaft key that mates up the pulley/balancer due to a bad harmonic balancer I believe(had vibrations at idle, things went south the day before I was taking it to the shop). Couple weeks before that I found a crack on the outside starter bolt hole on the block and got it welded. This of course could break, and knowing my luck, it will break if I put more money into this engine.

One of my friends has done this exact swap and has given me pretty good advice on what needs to be changed over - oilpan, pulleys, some bolts, top hat on IP, intake manifold, etc.

What I'm asking is, what would you do to the new (to me) Hummer 6.2 before putting it in? I don't have a lot of extra $$, but vibration reducing and engine strengthening upgrades are what I want to start with - mild modding later. I want this engine to last; I'm not a pedal to the metal driver, nor do I tow, or mud. MPG and reliability are my top 2 reasons for getting the 6.2 in the first place.

I've scoured the forums and found some really good info on the following, but would like some more input for the sake of conversation:

Fluidampr and seal, or oem HB and seal? I've read some notice no difference w/ a Fluidampr, some see a major difference.

The DSG girdle kit(yes I'll be looking for web cracks as soon as I get the engine in). Again, reviews are mixed on this, and I"m sure they'll stay that way lol.... A lot of people seem to have issue w/ the fact that they're powdercoated and going into the bottom end.

Replace the rear main seal since the engine's out? Overkill?

New motor mounts - no brainer.

Finally, what would you do to a Hummer 6.2 w/ 10-40k miles getting ready to go into your truck, things that are easy to do on a motor on a stand, but not in the truck? There are a million things that could be done, but again, focusing on mpg and reliability. Turbo's out of the question for now, unfortunately....
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
zetan
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Fluiddampr +1 especially on manual trans vehicles.

Rear main seal is a good thing to replace with the motor out

Does your starter have the brace bar at the end bolted to the block?
That prevents broken starter bolts and cracks.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
SixTwo
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Hey zetan, thanks for the input.. it's an auto but leaning toward fluidampr nonetheless.

The starter in the old motor did have the famous bracket, but when I crawled under there, the nut holding the front of the starter to the bracket was missing, so it might as well not have been there at all. Figured from reading here that's what caused the broken bolt and crack. PO obviously had a problem w/ the starter before, as the starter holes in the block had been drilled out to 7/16"(outside hole) and a helicoiled 1/2" (inside hole), more reason to junk the block. Ever try finding knurled starter bolts in those sizes? Don't bother! They don't exist!

Last edited by SixTwo; 01-16-2013 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
Landmine
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I would skip the fluidamper, and dsg girdle.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
D.Camilleri
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Inspect the bearing inserts while the pan is off. It will give you piece of mind if they are good, and if they don't look as good as they should, you can easily roll in new ones.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Rear main yes as a neglected cdr valve will blow that rear main. And it is SO SO SO much easier with motor out of truck.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The DSG girdle is just a flimsy piece of angle iron. I wouldnt mess with it. Unless you wanna build a really strong girdle dont bother. The 6.2 I pulled out of my truck which was abused and had probably 100k+ on it has 0 bottom end cracks. The one I pulled out of a blazer with 56k had every main web cracked. So in all reality it's a crap shoot on cracking blocks, sometimes you'll get em, sometimes ya wont. Just dont beat on it real hard and you should be ok.

I'd put new seals in, new HB, new crank pulley, and a new water pump. Water pump is a slight pain in the truck.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did water pump in my truck in under one hour. Cordless ratchet.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If your balancer is mint leave it. If you need a new one...Fluidampr. The Dorman ones are crap and a GM one will cost you what a Fluidampr will.
I got mine from Xtreme Diesel. They were having a special but I guess that is over unless you can find a discount code for them.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/fluidamp...per800191.aspx
Still competitive price with free shipping.
I'd do the headgaskets and ARP studs. simple to do while it's out.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The hummer motor will be a 88-00 6.2/6.5 so here is the link for those years.

http://www.xtremediesel.com/fluidamp...per800141.aspx

And on my old blow by motor that's a good chunk towards a new motor.

Also ace please describe your redneckmaster exhaust. Thx
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Last edited by Sparkys Tacoma; 01-18-2013 at 06:54 PM.
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