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Old 11-20-2012, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
Durrrr
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6.2 basket case, need help please!

Hi, I just started this thread on a different forum please check it out using the link provided

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...25#post5713125
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
AdrianR
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Blech! That looks like a mess! You're gonna' need a full set of wiring diagrams OR you could just 'McGuyver' it.

The 6.2 glow plug system used unreliable controllers. Most folk simply wire up a manual switch. Take a Ford starter solenoid, mount it on the firewall and run the energizer wire into the cabin to a pushbutton (that keeps the heavy amperage in the engine bay). Run a 2ga cable from battery + to one side of the solenoid and all your glowplug wires to the other side (don't forget to use fusible links on the plug wires). There you go - push the button, relay closes and glowers light up. REMEMBER, if you go this way then you MUST use self-limiting plugs like the AC Delco 60g or Bosch Duraterm.

Batteries & Voltage: The 6.2 needs TWO batteries of 700CCA or better wired in PARALLEL - positives are connected together so you get 12V but with lots of current on tap to spin the starter. Do you have 2 batteries? Are they connected this way? Then you have a 12v setup. Check the voltage rating on body electrics (like bulbs) to see what it originally ran at - you may need to change a few things...I dunno, my 24V military knowledge is almost non-existent.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What year is the body? What trans?
First find out if the batteries are wired up in parallel or series.
Parallel would give you 12v to starter and everything else.
Series would give you 24v to some things and 12v to others.

Don't need much for wiring to get a 6.2 running .... 12v to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump.

I would wire up a manual glow plug setup, save yourself some money and grief.

Only other wires would be for cold start advance, temp, alternator wires and starter
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Do remember that boost is just a measurement of restriction and more isn't always better
82 K30 6.2 TH400, ... the restoration begins. Getting a 6bt /47rh swap "The mutt" a mix of parts from the Big 3 but still a Chevy at heart
Restoration thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=414730
84 K20 6.2 4sp (The parts truck) Plow truck Parts truck for sure now already started ripping it apart, not much left
Parts truck thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=434338
84 C10 SB Low rider thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...light=lowrider Sold
2003 Vdub Golf TDi my DD car averaging 45 mpg
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
turbonator
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Welcome to Diesel Place. Would help if you were to post up your pics here and fill out your sig. It makes it difficult to try and trouble-shoot running back and forth from one forum to another. Just a quick look at the pic of your intake, and if this is a military (24v) truck, the intake is not correct. Otherwise your system should all be 12v. The box under your steering (on the floor mat...LOL), is a remote starter/alarm. Should be all disconnected and the truck wired as simple as possible. Come on over, we have many knowledgeable members here, that do all their own work on these trucks....J&J.
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1986 jetta IDITI, some goodies
1988 swb test truck, for testing
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building power, "Sanford and Son style"

under development:
-MEGA-SQUIRTZ H.O. injectors
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-supercharger kit
-center mount turbo kit with tubular manifolds....
and much more.....
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
Durrrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianR View Post
Blech! That looks like a mess! You're gonna' need a full set of wiring diagrams OR you could just 'McGuyver' it.

The 6.2 glow plug system used unreliable controllers. Most folk simply wire up a manual switch. Take a Ford starter solenoid, mount it on the firewall and run the energizer wire into the cabin to a pushbutton (that keeps the heavy amperage in the engine bay). Run a 2ga cable from battery + to one side of the solenoid and all your glowplug wires to the other side (don't forget to use fusible links on the plug wires). There you go - push the button, relay closes and glowers light up. REMEMBER, if you go this way then you MUST use self-limiting plugs like the AC Delco 60g or Bosch Duraterm.

Batteries & Voltage: The 6.2 needs TWO batteries of 700CCA or better wired in PARALLEL - positives are connected together so you get 12V but with lots of current on tap to spin the starter. Do you have 2 batteries? Are they connected this way? Then you have a 12v setup. Check the voltage rating on body electrics (like bulbs) to see what it originally ran at - you may need to change a few things...I dunno, my 24V military knowledge is almost non-existent.
Thx for the great advice, im really not sure how im supposed to gather all the glowplug wires. Arent they all supposed to merge into two large wires and be exposed? I find it strange that I have go digging into the harness for these wires.

I just bought the chevy glow plug selenoid & it looks alot like the ford starter selenoid. Can I just use that?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legendman View Post
What year is the body? What trans?
First find out if the batteries are wired up in parallel or series.
Parallel would give you 12v to starter and everything else.
Series would give you 24v to some things and 12v to others.

Don't need much for wiring to get a 6.2 running .... 12v to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump.

I would wire up a manual glow plug setup, save yourself some money and grief.

Only other wires would be for cold start advance, temp, alternator wires and starter
Not sure how everything was wired but today I just connected one battery and the dash lights came on. The fuel spider was also getting power. But no power to the nss. Thx for the help!
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
turbonator
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The solenoid that you bought is for a manual glow plug system. Most of us here use some sort of manual over-ride like that. The glow plug wires start at the controller with a wire for each side of block. They then split into two then four wires each side, where they connect to the glow plugs. Yes they are protected (enclosed in protective covering, like a harness), as they go to and from the controller. You will also need to go digging into the harness to actually find these wires, and the control wire from the interior (glow plug light will light up when button is pressed), and the power wire for the glow plugs.
__________________
1992 gmc 3500 drw, rclb..... very, very full of goodies
1986 jetta IDITI, some goodies
1988 swb test truck, for testing
acolytes of the "aggressive buddist's" principles since march 13th 2014
building power, "Sanford and Son style"

under development:
-MEGA-SQUIRTZ H.O. injectors
-big-bore DB-2 pumps (.350",.370")
-supercharger kit
-center mount turbo kit with tubular manifolds....
and much more.....
Jeff & jim....

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Old 11-20-2012, 07:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
Durrrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbonator View Post
Welcome to Diesel Place. Would help if you were to post up your pics here and fill out your sig. It makes it difficult to try and trouble-shoot running back and forth from one forum to another. Just a quick look at the pic of your intake, and if this is a military (24v) truck, the intake is not correct. Otherwise your system should all be 12v. The box under your steering (on the floor mat...LOL), is a remote starter/alarm. Should be all disconnected and the truck wired as simple as possible. Come on over, we have many knowledgeable members here, that do all their own work on these trucks....J&J.
Thx for the help, ill try and post pics tomorrow.

I believe the body is an 84 but I'm not sure on the running gear. Someone asked earlier so I wanted to mention it
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
Durrrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbonator View Post
The solenoid that you bought is for a manual glow plug system. Most of us here use some sort of manual over-ride like that. The glow plug wires start at the controller with a wire for each side of block. They then split into two then four wires each side, where they connect to the glow plugs. Yes they are protected (enclosed in protective covering, like a harness), as they go to and from the controller. You will also need to go digging into the harness to actually find these wires, and the control wire from the interior (glow plug light will light up when button is pressed), and the power wire for the glow plugs.
Sounds like fun, anyone here wanna make some money lol
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is a schematic for 84-86 glow plug wiring if it will help

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Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
It's dumb...get rid of it
Do remember that boost is just a measurement of restriction and more isn't always better
82 K30 6.2 TH400, ... the restoration begins. Getting a 6bt /47rh swap "The mutt" a mix of parts from the Big 3 but still a Chevy at heart
Restoration thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=414730
84 K20 6.2 4sp (The parts truck) Plow truck Parts truck for sure now already started ripping it apart, not much left
Parts truck thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=434338
84 C10 SB Low rider thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...light=lowrider Sold
2003 Vdub Golf TDi my DD car averaging 45 mpg
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