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Old 05-19-2011, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
1968CHEVYC10
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New clutch, input shaft bushing or bearing

Ok, I'm gathering parts and putting stuff together to drop into my truck this week end. I bought a clutch and it came with these two input shaft bushing/bearings deals below. This is only the second clutch I've done, my first was for my 350 and it had the brass type. I guess they didn't put these in with auto's or the PO removed it for some reason but there's not either type in the motor currently. Which one should I use? They both fit btw
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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A needle bearing is generally better than a simple bushing as there is not as much friction
Bearings are also used on higher HP flywheel/clutch applications.
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, I was kinda leaning that way, figured a bearing couldn't hurt anything anyway.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Auto's didn't come with them.

Where'd you get your clutch kit from?

Inspect the throwout bearing very carefully. It should be a little stiff to spin, yet still spin smoothly, like a freshly packed wheel bearing. If it freewheels and you can "hear" it spin do not install it it will fail.

Look in my "throwout bearing failed" thread to see what a cheap-o throwout bearing looks like after only 8,000 miles.


Anyways.

I'm running a input shaft bushing on my truck(85 K-5 in the process of a turbo conversion). I do have a bearing that came with my RhinoPac clutch kit. The original autozone one came with a bushing. Since that bushing only has ~8K miles on it, i'm re-using it since it still looks new.

The thing with a bearing is that if it fails you'll have the hardened rollers crunching around on your input shaft which can ruin the tip of the input shaft, and therefore the entire shaft is junk. When a bushing fails, since it's a softer metal, it just turns basically to dust. I have a spar 6.2 in my shed that came form a factory manual trans truck. The pilot bearing had obviously failed at some point, and you could see all the little rollers just sitting in there, waiting to get crushed into the input shaft. No thanks, i'll stick with the bushing.

Also look over the clutch disc very carefully, especially on the disc edge. If there are any cracks in the edge of the disc, or anything other than a manufacturing mark do not use it. Those cracks, if not dead-ended can cause parts of the friction material to literally be thrown(a.k.a. explode) off the clutch disc due to centrifugal force.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The clutch is a "sachs" from o'reilly. It is a lower end one but I've had good luck so far with the one behind my 350 (also a sachs). Yeah the TO bearing is good, smooth but not free spinning, it came pregreased.

Well now you've got me thinking the other way with the bushing. Unfortunately I already pressed in the bearing, how do you get those things out? In case I decide to go with the bushing.

Also I will be sure to look the clutch over carefully, Thanks for your help Dave!
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you'll need a pilot bearing/bushing removal tool(them make one that goes on a slide hammer) if you want to do it the "professional" way.

You could also fill behind the pilot bearing full of grease then find something the exact diameter of the input shaft tip and push in the grease. It'll act like a press and force the bearing out, in theory anyways.


Throwout bearings should all be pre-greased. Unfortunately Autozone doesn't agree(barely any grease on 2 of 2 throwout bearings i got from them), which is why i'll never buy a clutch kit from them ever again. Even the brand new throwout bearing i got when i exchanged the clutch kit had practically no friggin grease in it. Unbelievable. Just an FYI Autozone parts numbers are the same as "perfection clutch" part numbers. I can't really blame Autozone since they don't make it, but the kit seemed to be a mismatch of different brands(clutch disc is in a bag marked "perfection clutch" though).


Also make sure you get the correct flywheel. Gas and Diesel flywheels are totally different. The tooth count of starter and ring gear are different from gas to diesel, not to mention the diesel is externally balanced so it needs the correct flywheel/flexplate.
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Last edited by IamDave0887; 05-19-2011 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968CHEVYC10 View Post
...Well now you've got me thinking the other way with the bushing. Unfortunately I already pressed in the bearing, how do you get those things out? In case I decide to go with the bushing.
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Originally Posted by IamDave0887 View Post
you'll need a pilot bearing/bushing removal tool(them make one that goes on a slide hammer) if you want to do it the "professional" way. You could also fill behind the pilot bearing full of grease then find something the exact diameter of the input shaft tip and push in the grease. It'll act like a press and force the bearing out, in theory anyways.
A bearing runs truer, which can help the trans shift a little easier. That is why bearings are used in high RPM applications, if everything else is in perfect alignment then shifting will be more precise.
A bushing can be a little more forgiving of bellhousing misalignment and might under some circumstances be longer lasting. And certainly no one can accuse a 6.2 of being a high RPM engine. My experience with pilot bearings has been that they seem to last longer on vehicles based in the southern U.S. Dave lives in salt road country and that salt gets in to everything, in his place I would vote for a bushing too.

If you leave the bearing in, be sure to put some grease in the cavity behind the bearing. If you decide to take the bearing out and don't have the removal tool, I don't think you will have much luck with the method of using grease to force the pilot bearing out. The grease will just squeeze past the rollers. This method works good on pilot bushings though.

Now, don't start laughing just yet, I am going to tell you an alternate way of forcing the bearing out. It involves wet toilet paper, hey I said no laughing. Take wet toilet paper, push it into the cavity behind the pilot bearing, when you can't push any more in, take a VERY close fitting punch and strike it briskly with the biggest hammer you can swing. Keep packing in more wet TP until the bearing is out.

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Old 05-22-2011, 12:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Use the bushing not the brg,as dave said when that brg fail's it takes the imput shaft with it.

I think some of the reason the brg fails faster is when installing the trans the imput shaft marks the brg causing it to fail premature ,
Also it collects the clutch dust faster

On any pilot bushing make sure to lube it in oil ,these bushing are a oil light bushing .

Place one end on your thumb pour oil in the open end (full) then with your other thumb squeeze till the oil starts to "sweat" out of the bushing . once it starts "sweating" it's lubed for the life of it !!!!
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i have the bearing from factory in mine. when i did the clutch, it come with a bushing, but the bearing was nice and stiff with grease still, so i left it in. just packed the crank cavity with a good wad of high temp grease. made the transmission a royal bag to put in (had to ease it in with the bolts since it was pushing a little of the grease out around the bearing), but it shifts nice. when the transmission is hot, its fairly hard to get into gear though .
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brent can't do that, it would look factory, lol

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Old 05-22-2011, 12:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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With the problems with bearings I've had in recent years I'd definately be more inclined to use a bushiung. 10 years ago I would have leaned towards the bearing.
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