My dad and I bought a complete '82 C-code 6.2L that was pulled from a truck. The guy said it would run, but not well. Sometimes it would run, sometimes it wouldn't. Anyway, we only paid $65 so we figured we could scrap it in the worse case and get our money back. We have it mounted on a stand and we're going to try to start it up, but I noticed that the injection pump was rotated to the driver side (advanced) and the timing mark on the pump is about 3/16" to the right of the mark on the motor. Isn't this too far advanced? Should we line the marks up before trying to fire it up?
3/16" is definitly significantly advanced but not crazy. The timing chains can get quite a bit of slop, as the chain gets sloppier the pump needs to advance a bit more. I'd start it as is for a benchmark then advance/retard it a bit and see if it runs any better or worse (engine off when doing the advancing). The lines are only there for initial timing. Most are advanced a hair but some more than others.
x2. will run, sometimes won't run. sounds like it had air issues or more likely the IP was going out. major timimg adjust could be to try to correct IP issues
Like the other guys said signs of overly advanced static timing usually point to a bad IP. As the IP wears out the timing has to be advanced more, and eventually advancing the timing doesn't help at all. At that point the engine will run like crap, blow unburnt diesel smoke everywhere at all RPMs, and cn even randomly stall out.
Been there done that.
When you get it running, if it runs like this, it's time for an IP.
Injection pumps from the early 80's 6.2 engines and also the 5.7 diesel had governor weight retainer flex rings which break away,clogging the fuel return fitting within the governor cover causing driveability problems,stalling,rough running,etc.I've seen it happen many times.If left uncorrected,the injection pump will destroy itself because the cage rivets on the governor cage will wear away sending metal grit throughout the pump.
The fix for that is a new elastomer insert drive or EID unit.It replaces the troublesome flex ring.
Ahh yes the old flex ring. Take the top cover off the IP and look for coffee grounds in the bowl. If yes that's the broken up flex ring. New IP and you're in business.
The "red" block was the first 6.2 created. 1982 model year. The block had a higher nickle content. Per Detroit Diesel the 6.2 was supposed to have a Forged Steel crank, but GM axed it due to "cost". If any snuck past GMs axe it's be the 82 red block engines.
well that is good news cause when I see my 6.2 at idle it looks like the the crank is jumping around a bit, this is also my first gm diesel so I dont know if that is normal or what, but I feel better about it now. Now for another question the red block was only in 1982 right my sub is an 85 so this definetly means there has been an engine swap right?
crank should NOT jump. if you have a 85 then it didnt come with a red block AFAIK, only way to tell for sure is casting numbers. just because the block is red doesnt mean its a red block, many people paint the blocks.
The casting numbers would be on the rear of the block near where the trans bolts on.
The last 3 numbers of the casting number are the engine block "code" If you have an actual "birthdate" of the engine that was a redblock feature(like 1-1-82 for example).
6.2 block code was either 660 for the 2 piece rear main seal(early 6.2s) or 599 for the one piece rear main(later 6.2s and early 6.5T). 141, 929, 506 are all strictly 6.5 blocks.
Another thing that was a redblock feature was the cast rockers with the springs on the shaft. The later models have stamped steel rockers with nylon "rocker retainers" that would keep the rocker from moving side to side too much and "walking" off the pushrod/valve.
Tried to fire the red motor up today, but can't get it to run. It will pop right after the glow plugs go out, but it dies immediately. I've tried holding it at about half throttle while cranking it, but it doesn't help. Does anyone have any ideas?
if it was like mine. the reason i got it was the IP was shot. they usually only go 120-150k miles. you could take the top off and see if its clean inside.
a gas soaked rag near the intake might get it to fire, but hold on tight, it will get sucked in
Thanks. I have a couple of spare DB2 pumps laying around. Maybe I'll throw one of those on it and see what happens.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Diesel Place
5.3M posts
218.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet and GMC diesel truck owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about duramax engines, performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!