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Body mounts

2K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  turbonator 
#1 · (Edited)
So the body mounts on my K-5 are beyond shot. I have the kit from LMC with all the new hardware.

2 of the 4 "main" mounts (center bolt that goes into the body with rubber rings) are missing the bottom steel cup and rubber ring. The 3rd the ring is broken around the bolt but still holding on. The 4th seems to be in one piece still.

I was debating on seeing if i can break one of the mounts free today. I tried a long box wrench(with another wrench on the back for more leverage) a few months ago, and the bolt didn't' even budge.

I was going to try to impact gun today on the lowest setting and see if it'll loosen and come out, or just snap.

I know i should probably leave "well enough alone" until after winter, but the past few warmer days(40*F) have shown that the body mounts are in a severe state of disrepair.

i can hear them popping and clunking like crazy when on a rough road, and i know it's not the front end components making noise because i had an alignment a few weeks ago and everything's tight in the front end.

Thoughts?
 
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#2 ·
Well it seems like the bolts just dont wanna let go. Personally i would apply some heat to them and stick a jack handle over a nice size breaker bar. Get all the leverage you can on them. If they are as tight as my U-bolts were not even a impact will get them off.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The impact gun i have isn't the greatest either. it's the bottom of the line "snap on"(actually labeled blue point). My good impact gun, an IR236C, (even though it's looking pretty beat nowadays) is at a buddies place and that one will twist your arm right off. It even had a warning that said something about the repeated hammering motion causing bodily injury.

Only "heat" i've got is a propane torch. I"m just afraid of busting th damn things. That makes removal so much more of a *****.
 
#4 ·
2 of the 4 "main" mounts (center bolt that goes into the body with rubber rings) are missing the bottom steel cup and rubber ring. The 3rd the ring is broken around the bolt but still holding on. The 4th seems to be in one piece still.

Thoughts?

too bad Dave, I just tossed all the mounts and hardware from taking mine off. :( I do have a few pieces still around.

I've taken these out on a couple vehicles. I always managed to get them to turn with a breaker bar as my impact never had the guts to do it. never neeeded heat, which on the cab mounts, is near impossible to apply.
on a couple cab mounts, the flag nut started spinning free, I just jacked up the cab to put tension on the nut and got them the rest of the way off. I still have some center caps around here somewhere
 
#5 ·
OK i just went out after the ol '40s compressor hissed off and slowly came to a stop.

I cross my fingers, put the impact gun in "remove" and pulled the trigger. It took a bit but the bolts started to turn. I put the gun in "tighten" and made sure they turned back the same amount. They did.

I just grabbed the body mount kit box and made sure everything was in it. Everything seems to be there. All 4 mount positions and the rad core kit.

I'm going out to see if i can at least change the 2 on the passenger side. Those 2 bolts turned, although they did leak a rusty liquid from the repeated hammers of the impact.


Ok now the safety aspect. What's the best way to lift the body up? It looks like i'd need maybe 2 inches to be able to sneak the old upper portion of the mount out, and the new one in. I don't want to damage the supports where the mounts go, as that'll really ruin the remains of this body.

I was thinking of putting the jack and a 4x4 piece of wood on the long "support" that runs between the front most and 2nd position body mounts on the passenger side. Obviously i'd get the jack as close to the mount I'd be working on but not close enough to be in the way.

Rich? what do you think?
 
#6 ·
Rich? what do you think?

I try not to, it hurts :p:

proper book way is to undo a whole side and lift up. I don't think you really need a lot of clearance. under an inch IIRC.

yes, i used a 4x4 block on the floor jack. cross my fingers none break :)
 
#8 ·
i just picked sturdy spots and all went well. one i did this on was a rust bucket, not unlike yours and it went fine
 
#9 · (Edited)
I got the jack as close as i could to the mount i was working on. Practically under it actually. As i jacked up the body i watched the passenger door hit the front fender on the bottom. Oops. :eek::

The passenger side mounts are in.

What's the torque spec? Is there one? I just put my impact gun on 1(lowest) until the bolt stopped turning. Then i brought it to setting 2 until the same happened. Then gave it a few good whacks on "full out". mind you this is with a huge 40s compressor running 120 psi in the line and 150 psi in the tank.

That good?
 
#10 · (Edited)
I got the jack as close as i could to the mount i was working on. Practically under it actually. As i jacked up the body i watched the passenger door hit the front fender on the bottom. Oops. :eek::

The passenger side mounts are in.

What's the torque spec? Is there one? I just put my impact gun on 1(lowest) until the bolt stopped turning. Then i brought it to setting 2 until the same happened. Then gave it a few good whacks on "full out". mind you this is with a huge 40s compressor running 120 psi in the line and 150 psi in the tank.

That good?

Oh man ,, I love the answer to this one :chicken:

fine sir, you should look for your answer in the 6.2 facts section under torque values. :hehe:

I asked when I did mine, then myself or Joe editted it in.. :rof1:


edit. a couple of nights ago, I went through my manual and added all the torque values I could find. I need to do the same in the 6.5 section
 
#11 ·
D'oh! :bangdesk:

only 55 ft lbs? Seems kinda low. I"ll back them off and re-torque to 55 then.

Don't poke the fat guy. he's known to :ban: without reason. :admin: :hehe:
 
#12 · (Edited)
couldn't help it Dave, I got you for once. :hehe:

yes it did seem low, till i did it.
All the rubber being compressed, it was a lot of tightening with the torque wrench, and some, I did go a hair heavier. Think they are supposed to have a bit of give, so too tight and no rubber movement
 
#15 · (Edited)
yea yea yea. :hehe:

That does make sense. The mounts should have some give to them, hence the whole rubber mount theory.

Found a problem though. The 2nd position drivers side is seized. It's seized to the point where the "nut" started turning. Now the nut turns all the ways around, even when i jacked up the body to change the 1st position mount on the driver's side.

So i have 3 new body mounts, and so far one seized one.

I was looking to see if i could maybe get a sawzall in there(in between the mount and the body(prolly a bad idea) and cut the bolt as close to the "nut" as i could. Since the ends of those support pillars have rot i think i might be able to stick my flexible magnetic tool in there and remove the nut.

Anyone know where to get a single new nut?

Tomorrow i'll go after the rad support ones. The "bed" ones will wait until i'm changing the driver's bedside. The rear most "bed" ones near th tailgate aren't even attached to anything anymore anyways. I can rotate the mounts back there, with the body sitting on them. :eek:
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
:rolleyes:
 
#16 ·
hmmm. will it screw back in? probably not. if it could, i'd spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and try to tighten it up again. I honestly never investigated how they sat in there. if you cut the bolt and got the nut out, i assume you could then remove the stud in a vice, straighten it and reuse. but its just a guess :(
 
#18 ·
if the blaze uses the same bolts as a truck does, they are just regular 1/2" bolts so you could get just a regular 1/2" nut. if one of the nuts is spinning. your sol. by 2nd postion do you mean under the d/s floor pan? if you do make a hole from the top down. no real way of getting it out with out the hole. plus you get the added bonus probally finding the top half of the bolt is twice as big as the opening in the nut due to rust.
 
#19 ·
ya, he's referring to the ones under the cab, you can kinda access from the underside side, but floor maybe so much simplier
 
#20 ·
Yup i'm referring to the ones that behind the driver's seat area. It's not happy.

I was debating cutting the old bolt and removing the nut with my magnetic pickup tool and trying the remove the bolt remains in the vice.

I just hate the idea of cutting it, as i'll probably cut into the support and ruin it.

I was debating stuffing a long screwdriver in there to jam the nut assembly and stop it from turning. I"ll be trying that tomorrow morning.

If i have to I'll cut it, but i really don't want to go that route. I soaked the hell out of that whole area with PB Blaster( sprayed in through the rot hole and used about 1/4 of a can judging by the puddle from it dripping out).

I may just leave that mount alone until spring. Laying in the driveway on top of ice isn't the most comfortable way to work.
 
#21 · (Edited)
:cussing::cussing:


This Censored-ing last mount bolt won't come out. It just spins. I REALLY can't stress how much i don't want to cut a hole in my Censored-ing floor.

There's no other way to get this bolt out?

The nuts are in little cages i believe, which means i can't just pull the nut out if i cut the bolt off flush with the body.

This blows. :damnit1::bangdesk:

I tried jamming the end of a prybar in there but couldn't get the nut to stop spinning. The bolt is loose, like it turned a few threads before the nut broke free.

Maybe I'll just leave this one alone until spring and mess with the rad core support ones instead.

Oh on top of this damn body mount that's stuck, i found out my radiator has a crack in the tank 3-4 inches below the cap. I can see the green ooze around the crack. It's a small crack that's probably been there for a while, but it's still a damn crack in an otherwise good radiator. Called the local rad shop and for them to clean and pressure test the 4 core i have in the shed is $75. That's $75 i don't have right now. Damn it again. Censored
 
#22 ·
Dave, now you just sound like me. Go to fix one problem and 12 more pop up. just gotta learn to leave well enough alone :D or just do a frame off resto. and theres no way to torch the bolt out from underneath?
 
#23 · (Edited)
Torch is a bad idea. It's undercoated with grease more or less. That'll just start a big ass fire.

Turns out my damn t-case is leaking still. I need to get the damn sleeve for the yoke. It's not expensive, but having it put on probably will be. :mad:

2 new seals and it still leaks. a new yoke is like $90. Again $90 i don't have. Not to mention assembly at the driveshaft shop. :mad:

I'm not too sure about my friend diag of the crack in the radiator. It could be. I wiped around the spot where he spotted the dried coolant goo stuff. I don't see a crack. I do take that cap off a lot to check the level. I pray it just dribbled coolant down and that's what i saw.
 
#24 ·
maybe if you could cut the bolt, you could push it up inside and take another bolt and weld a piece of flatbar to it in the shape of an "L" and slide it up in again and it would not turn when the "L" came against resistance...
 
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