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Old 01-21-2009, 12:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
junkingcars
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6.2 fuel leak

Hi all I am a new member from nova scotia I have a 91 diesel 6.2 in a chev 4 by 4 it has 373 000 kms on it also have another one for parts that has 182000 kms on it. My problem is that fuel is leaking from somewhere above the transmission where the lines go in back of the engine. I want to replace both of them with copper or steel if I can does anyone know the sizes of the lines I think the one that comes off the main filter is 3/8 rubber but can hardly see the other return line it is cold as hell out right now and I am working outside it does not look like the filter or up top is leaking it leaks quite a bit when I shut it off until the pressure is off it. Any advice would be appreciated.
regards
rod s
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
High Sierra 2500
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Look down in the engine valley around the injection pump. Sometimes the pump leaks, any leaks in the valley will drip down and out around the transmission as there is a drain tube there.
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
junkingcars
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It is hard to see where it is coming from especially since it is so damn cold out and wind is blowing pretty good to.
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rod s
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your also better off getting rid of that filter housing if it leaks all the time and retrofit a Racor or Lucas CAV water separator and place it on the firewall.I removed the original coolant overflow container from the firewall on my '93 chevy and I placed a Lucas water separator there.Works perfect.I then found another coolant container from a mid 80's chevy truck and fastened it to the passenger fenderwell.Works like a charm.

Fuel line sizes on these trucks are 3/8 and 1/4.
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
High Sierra 2500
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Well, you need to find where it's leaking before you go changing stuff. I believe the line sizes are 3/8 on the feed and 1/4 on the return, but figure out where it's leaking first. It's going to be more of a pain changing those lines than it would be to figure out where it's leaking, and frankly the lines you are referencing don't frequently start leaking.
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Old 01-21-2009, 02:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
mattthebrat
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I the feed line on mine start leaking, of course that was because it was rusted through. I would say it is not a fun job to do mine wasn't terrible, but I have an extra 3" of clearance between the engine and firewall.
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Old 01-21-2009, 03:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
junkingcars
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rust is an issue up here even oil pans rust out the dept of highways uses road salt and even undercoated vehicles rust out my frame is broken in the back the metal is so thin that it cracked on both sides where a homemade patch was put on it. I will have to take the box off as that is all rusted out also and weld up the frame in the spring also rusted out is the crossmember that the front of the fuel tank strap bolts onto so have to change that also. The old truck works good but has a few issues between 60 kms and 70 kms it continually shifts up and down as of oit can't find correct speed otherwise trans runs ok. There is some sort of butterfly thing on the exhaust manifold where the pipe bolts on it seems to be a vacumm of some type not sure it is doing anything as it is pretty rusty.
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rod s
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Old 01-21-2009, 03:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
mattthebrat
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That butterfly valve is for the EGR system, most guys knock them out, as thay can be a common spot for leaks, altough you may have more trouble than it is worth, due to the rust . My truck was rusted bad enough that the bolt flanges rotted right off of the manifold. I hate salt!
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1991 Chevy Scottsdale 2500
Truck has 197,000, motor has 137,000
6.2L na J code 1/8 turn on IP, K&N air filter
4L80E
14 bolt 9.5" "peg leg" 4.10
3" body lift
Hummer H2s with 315/70-17 BFG All-Terrains
Badger State Diesel Club Member

Proud Member of the Great Lakes Coal Rollers
Member #6.2 of the TLFTN club

Member #2 of the Young and Poor club

Member #113 of the Regular Cab Club
REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARK PLUGS
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
junkingcars
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found the leak

well I got it inside a buddy's shop and found that the small plastic plug on the top of the fuel filter housing was leaking went to tighten it up and it broke off in my fingers no problem I thought as I have another one on a parts truck that one was broke also. We spent about 3 hours with various washer and rubber and cork gaskets and a bolt trying to get it to stop seeping fuel out finally looks like I got it stopped but will be getting a new part for it anyway I think this is some sort of bleed off for the filter as there is a small tube there and a sensor right beside it.
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rod s
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
Fred482`
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Yes, it's a bleed screw. It has a tapered end and uses a square cut seal in the bottom of the hole to seal it. Parts are hard to find. If you can find the plastic tapered screw, you can make a seal from a piece of fuel hose, cut it off about 1/8" long, use a razor knife and make sure it's relatively close to uniform in thickness. Fit it down into the bore with a punch and screw the tapered vent screw in against it. don't get it too tight, the screws break easily. Just "seat" it against the seal.

If you have the patience, you can cut and fit several pieces until you arrive at the perfect length that just tightens and compresses the seal as the screw comes into contact with the top of the filter housing. It takes a little time but that's the ideal way because if keeps the screw tight against the housing so it won't back out, yet allows the tapered end to seal tightly without crushing the seal.
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