rear main seal replacement - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Lounge (0) Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > GM Diesel Engines > 6.2L Diesel Engine
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto LoansInsurance

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-16-2008, 05:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

rear main seal replacement

Ugh! Got my buddy helping me replace the rear main seal in the van.
Noticed the motor mounts were shot, so we lifted the engine a few inches and replaced those.

Removed the oil filter. Dropped the starter. Got all the oil pan bolts out. Pan is stuck on the oil pickup tube. Remove that (4 bolts) and 2 gears from the oil pump. Now the pan hits the bell housing.
I can't seem to get enough clearance to slide it down and out so I can get to the rear main cap. I thought it was supposed to be possible to remove the pan without dropping the transmission or bellhousing?

Any thoughts? Help!

Thank
-zetan
__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline  
Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-16-2008, 05:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
vxdude21a
Diesel Technician
 
vxdude21a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 123
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

I just did mine but I had the trans out but i still had to remove the oil pump its held in by one bolt did you remove the whole pump?
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2008, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

One bolt to remove the oil pump? I removed the face plate & drive gears & oil pickup tube.

Here's a picture of the problem...

__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2008, 08:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
wvw
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 32
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

First, remove the inspection cover. Should be 10 mm bolts.

You'll also probably have to lift one side of the frame to allow your pan to slide out. I did. You won't want it to touch anything when you put it back so figure this out.

And yes, only one bolt to drop the oil pump. When you remove the rear bearing cap, be ready for the bearing to fall.
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-22-2008, 05:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Ok, I got the oil pump off the rear main cap.

Can now move oil pan forward to expose rear main cap bolts.
Removed bolts with breaker bar. Once broken, can be removed with fingers. Cap won't fall off yet, considering hitting it with a bigger hammer soon.

Noticed an exhaust flange was burnt out on the drivers side, exhaust soot leaking onto the oil cooler lines. Picked up a replacement.

Still can't get the pan OUT though. I need to scrape all the !#$ RTV off the pan & engine before I put it back in and don't want to get any in the pan for the oil pump to pickup.

Which side did you remove the pan from?

Exhaust pipes are in the way to start with. I just don't see the angle to take.
__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-22-2008, 07:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Ok ok! I got the main cap off. The bearing stayed stuck to the shaft.

The seal is totally oil soaked, coming apart in places, and missing in others.

__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2008, 09:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
vxdude21a
Diesel Technician
 
vxdude21a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 123
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

the bearing is probable just suctioned on with oil It might just fall off. I would pull it off and seat it back in the bearing block before reinstalling it

I just re sealed mine and the new seal I got was a two piece silicon rubber one. looks like you have a old rope seal, I sure hope you can get the old one out of the upper half ..ouch
good luck
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2008, 10:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Removing the rope seal above the crank was easy.
Used a soft pipe cleaner with the end bent over so as not to scratch the metal. It's slightly longer than the seal, so once inserted fully you can pull it out the otherside.

First try and the upper seal just fell out. Made a few more passes to get any chunks but there really wasn't any.

I oiled the lip of the new seal and attempted to slide it into place.
I can fit it over the crank, but no way to grab it and slide it in.
Tried pliers to hold it and slide it into the groove, but to no avail.

Any tips for sliding the new seal into place?

Spent the rest of the afternoon scraping RTV off the pan lip & block.
__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2008, 05:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
zetan
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,430
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Woot. After removing the extra tabs of rubber around the seal, I was able to shove it a tad into the block. Then grabbed with pliers and pushed it a little at a time into the block! The block starts scraping parts of the seal off as it goes, so I have to clear the shaving off as I go, but it worked! Got the first one seated with about 1" sticking out, then slide the other one up the otherside until they met.

Reinstallation of the rear main cap calls for some sealant between the block and cap area around the seal. Will RTV red do? Or should I get something else?

Reinstallation of the oil pump calls for priming the pump. Do I fill the gear chamber full of oil, then tighten down the pump cover plate, then install?

Main cap torque specs
111 lb-ft inner bolts,
100 lb-ft outer bolts

Oil pump cover to pump body, 120 lb-in
Wait, lb-inches? Is that 10 lb-ft ?

Oil pump -> main cap bolt, 59-74 lb-ft

So happy to be 1/2 way done.
__________________
1995 Chevy G30 6.5L '99 506 GM-6 turbo 4L80E 4.10 DB2831-5088 fluiddampr 4" exhaust

1984 GMC Rally Custom G25 6.2L N/A fluiddampr NV4500 NP241 14 bolt & Dana 44HD 8 lug 4.10

1966 GMC K10 Suburban 4x4 future home of a 6.2L

1960 Chevy K10 283ci 4x4 shortstep in pieces
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2008, 06:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
oil pan 4
Diesel Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: clovis, NM
Posts: 2,579
iTrader Score: 2 reviews

I hope you didn't use another rope seal.
__________________
1984 Suburban C10 with C20 rear spings, Compound Turbocharged with HE351VE and T76, Intercooled, TH700, 3.42 gears ?posi?
P&P GM#162 heads, 506 block, DB2829 injector pump, J-code intake manifold, Pennsular diesel upper plenum.
Banksturbo and HMMWV manifolds, custom cross over, 3'' stainless down pipe and 4'' straight pipe exhaust.
Aluminum 2 core radiator, Electric radiator fans (16''+16''), Meziere electric water pump (55gpm), HD '92+ 6.5L water crossover, grill shutters, Air2oil cooler, 16 core trans cooler, 2 block heaters, two G183 intake heaters, 60G plugs, 3500w coolant heater. ISSPRO tach.
31'' yoko AT-S tires.
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
another rear main seal keypunch Duramax Fourth Generation: 2007.5-2010 (LMM) 285 12-24-2010 01:15 PM
rear main seal ribsbubel 6.2L Diesel Engine 17 08-03-2008 10:44 PM
rear main seal replacement bigwhitehd Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) 2 02-17-2008 11:15 PM
Help rear main seal MillwrightJesse 6.2L Diesel Engine 0 12-02-2007 12:06 PM
Possible rear main seal bad on LBZ?? Riccas Duramax Third Generation: 2006-2007.5 (LBZ & LLY) 4 07-31-2006 09:25 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:25 AM.


Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0