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Old 07-08-2007, 09:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
WoodChuck1021
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1982 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4X4, Dual Fuel Tank Capacities?

The fuel gauge on the truck I just bought isn't working correctly. The dual tank transfer switch works, (I can hear it click at the switch when someone operates it in the cab) but the fuel gauge stays at 1/4 to 5/16 of a tank regardless. I was wondering in anyone knew the exact gal. capacity of each tank? And where should I start to find the problem?
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
High Sierra 2500
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Is this a long bed or a short bed?

Long bed trucks had a capacity of 20 gallons per tank. Short bed trucks were 16 gallons per tank.
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Old 07-08-2007, 12:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks so much. I have the longbox (which I forgot to mention ), so 2 kudos for posting the capacities on both.

Any ideas on the gauges? I believe I got this truck for such a deal because the last owner ran out of fuel. All I had to do to get her running was charge the batteries, bleed the fuel lines from the tank to the injectors, bypass the radiator temp switch, and re-wire the manual glowplug switch the previous owner had installed.

I am assuming the fuel gauge in the dash isn't getting shorted/grounded out because that would peg the needle to E or F, right? Would a small short (very low voltage) be just enough to make it inaccurate but still work?

I'll replace the sending units if that fixes the problem, I'm just in no hurry to drop the tanks if I can avoid it.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
High Sierra 2500
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Sounds like a wiring issue to me. Probably a loose connection (not a short - I mean like a corroded connection with high resistance). I have a similar problem with my truck at the moment. I've been putting off fixing it for a little over a year...

It is most likely not the sending units. What are the chances of them both going bad and sticking at the same spot?
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Old 07-08-2007, 03:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I was thinking the same thing myself. I am going to start looking for a loose wire/connection, or some bad insulation letting the wire "bleed" just enough juice to make it the gauge malfunction. If I find it, I'll let you know where to look, so maybe you can fix yours, too.

Of course, with the age of the truck, I guess it is likely both sending units are bad. Maybe one went a long time ago, never got fixed, and now the second one's toast. Anyways, I'll start with wires and hope for the best.

Is there a way to test the sending unit without dropping the tank? Probably not, but worth a shot to ask...
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
If I find it, I'll let you know where to look, so maybe you can fix yours, too.
I know where to look, I'm just too lazy to do it...

Quote:
Is there a way to test the sending unit without dropping the tank? Probably not, but worth a shot to ask...
You could pull the bed...

Seriously, it is difficult at best to access the tank while it is installed. Sometimes you can get away with simply lowering the tank down a little bit.
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you put 2 come along, one on both sides of the tank, under the tank to frame you can pull all the wiring and hoses off and then the straps. Then you just lower the come along slowly until its low enough to access the sending unit. Just did that on my Blazer and it had a full tank. Pretty easy though.
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Old 07-22-2007, 04:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I traced all the lines. Nothing seems out of place, damaged, etc. Would a faulty gauge be the culprit? Is there a voltage test I could do at the gauge connections in the dash? Or a way to test the gauge itself?
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