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Old 10-09-2003, 03:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
lvcatfish
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Hi all!


I have aquired a spare 6.2l motor from an unknown salvaged military vehicle. The motor is known to be good except for a bad injector pump. I have a truck with a blown 6.2l and a practically new injector pump. Is it possible for a fairly skilled home mechanic to switch pumps and set the pump timing or are special tools required. Also if anyone can recommend any resources regarding 6.2l service procedures it would be greatly appreciated. The only only service procedures I can locate are in the form of a Hayes service manual for diesel engines which does not go into enough detail for my liking. Thank you.
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Old 10-09-2003, 08:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
CAT 3406
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If you feel comfortable you can do the switch, the most important thing is to index the pumps first, (take off the inspection plate and alignt the marks, by rotating the engines, not the pump.) If you index both engines while the number 1 cylinder is TDC firing, mark on front harmonic balancer, you should be realtively close on timing, and the new engine should fire, if it was timed correctly to begine with. However this is not a perfect means of timing an injection pump, and you should have a local shop with the correct tools time it precisely. The only thing to keep in mind is that you must be absolutely sure you get no grit grime dirt or any piece of anything in the injection lines, even dirt that is smaller than the human eye can detect, will cause problems with the injectors.





This is not a major task nor does it require all that much skill, but it does require a really clean environment and a lot of patients.





Hope this helps
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Old 10-09-2003, 09:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
CAT 3406
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Forgot the manual question. The only thing I can think of is get a book from Helm (factory service manuals from GM) that is for the truck in question, however if you are looking for specific IP information, you will not find it, as that is a Stanadyne only document that nobody but a certified Stanadyne shop can buy.
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Old 10-10-2003, 01:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
lvcatfish
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Thanks for the reply.


I am detail oriented and can follow instructions with the best of them. I do not want to cut any corners and my true intent is to get the truck re-assembled and running so that I can take it to a place that can tweak it afterwards. I've rebuilt the t400 and have the entire drivetrain pulled. The truck is currently immobile and besides that my foolish pride is getting in the way of paying for a tow. Unfortuneately, the blown motor will not turn and I'm not certain what has happened internally. I do believe that the blown motor had a head gasket leak as was evedent from combustion gas in coolant + coolant in oil. I was preparing to put the truck in my garage to pull the motor and turned it off in the driveway. It won't turn and hasn't started ever since.


Is it possible to index the pump and motor separately? Is the inspection plate on the pump or the motor? I see no timing marks on the pump's drive gear. If it can be done safely, I'm game. Otherwise I'll grit my teeth and tow it.


This is my first diesel project and I have been reading up as much as I can find. Thanks again for you input and patience.
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It can be done even with the bad engine frozen, no worries.


The inspection plate is located on the pump, it is on the passenger side of the pump if mounted, it is a little rectangular plate if I remember right with two screws. It is close to the front kinda centered on the round portion of the pump.


Keep in mind it has been a couple of years since I changed a 6.2 pump, so this is from memory, and you may have to ask questions, and others are welcome to chime in, if I botched it a little.


Behind this inspection plate are the indexing marks I am refering to.


REMEMBER before doing any work have extreamly clean line caps and as clean an environnment as you can, use clean tools, and rags. I cannot stress clean enough.


Read this entire post prior to starting any work, then follow steps at bottom asking questions.





On the good engine bad pump, remove the oil filler neck, and all of the injection lines. (remember to cap them with clean caps), and any other hoses or fitings, remembering how they go. Do not lossen any of the mounting bolts yet. Remove the three bolts inside the oil filler neck taking care not to loose them down inside the engine. You will have to rotate the engine a couple of turns to get to all three bolts.


On the new block bad pump engine, remove the inspection plate discribed above and rotate engine, (the direction it would under it's own power) until the lines meet exactly. Also ensure that the engine is on compression stroke number one cylcinder.


On the mounting flange, there should be an indexing line stamped in the middle of the pump flange and one on the block surface as well. Make sure there is one on the other pump in the exact same location on the pump flange, this will help get the rough timing acomplished.


If there are no lines on one or the other pumps, do not proceed, until you have a mark on both pumps at exactly the same location on the pump flange, on the good motor bad pump, I dought that the lines on the pump and block match up, so take a scribe or awl or screwdriver or something and srcibe a mark on the block at the same piont as the injection pumps mark.





Once you have all of your marks aligned you are ready to take off the bad pump, you do this by removeing the three mounting flange bolts. Make a mental note of the pin location in the gear assemble and its alingment.





Take the good pump off of the bad motor in basically the same way, remember this pump also needs to be kept very clean.


Take off the inspection plate of the new pump, and index the lines, turning the pump only in the dirrection of normaly travel (pump shaft facing you injector lines away shaft rotation is countercloackwise)


The pump should have a very close shaft rotation index as the pump you just took off, meaning if you looked both pumps in the shaft they would be in the same spot.


Now carefully install the new pump on the new motor, taking care not to move the gears in the housing for fear of knocking the timing gear off a few teeth, , before woring about the timing gear bolts install but hand tighten the mounting flange bolts, to hold the pump steady, you are now safe to rotate the engine and install the timing gear bolts, torque to spec. install filler neck.


Now line up the pump flange mark with the line on the block that use to line up with the old pump mark this is why the needed to be in the same place. Tighten the flange bolts to spec.


Install injector lines in reverse order, always start at botom of pump ( for obvious reasons) Tighten lines to spec.





Install all other periferial lines and wires, bleed fuel to pump by removing heavy guage pink wire crank truck with return hose off injection pump, when fuel is fairly clear of bubbles (for cleanlyness a piece of clear hose works very well) install pink wire and return hose, crack injection lines on drivers si
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
lvcatfish
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Thank you for the great information. As fate would have it my hard drive took a dive on saturday morning so i've been forced to deal with that. Hopefully I will get caught up by this weekend and have a chance to play in the garage. I've printed the instructions and will snoop out both motors then. Sounds like something I can do. Thanks again for your help and I'll post any questions after I've taken a look.
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