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Fuel delivery trouble. code p0087

LLY: 
22K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  USCDMAX 
#1 ·
Hi guys. Im hoping somebody can help me out. On a couple different towing trips Ive had trouble starting the truck after it has been turned off for a short while. On the last trip the check engine light came on but still ran good until I stopped for gas and it wouldn't start again. I had to get towed. So a buddy of mine came over and pulled the code p0087.However the truck started again after trying for 2 days. The trouble has not been fixed. On previous times I was able to open the bleeder on the fuel filter assembly and prime it and it would work, but not the last time. Fuel filter was replaced 5k ago.I went about a month and a half without problems between towing trips. Now my question is what do you think it could be? Should I try replacing the filter again and is there a second filter I should replace? Maybe fuel pump? Is the pump on the lly in the tank? Any feedback will be appreciated very much. Thanks for your time.
 
#2 ·
There is no fuel pump in the tank, only the CP3 injection pump on the motor. Change the filter just to eliminate that as a cause. Then you need to check the system for air leaks. It sounds like its loosing prime, which would explain the low rail pressure code. Check especially well around the filter head and WIF sensor, those are common leak points
 
#4 ·
Unless you've added one, there's only the one under the hood, and no sock on the pickup in the tank
 
#6 ·
Just replaced the fuel filter. Tomorrow I will replace the gas cap. Just starting with the cheap easy stuff. Unfortunately I will not be towing for awhile to see if I throw the p0087 code again.
 
#7 ·
I doubt replacing the fuel cap will change anything. IMO you have a leak in the fuel system
 
#8 ·
Thats what Ive been hearing. I put the new filter on and inspected the wif sensor and made sure the o rings went in good. Then checked around the fuel filter head and all looks good. I looked at the fuel lines and I dont see any visible trouble. Do you know where thes lines collapse that Ive read about on these posts. Im starting to worry about some of these posts where this problem in a nightmare and its hard to duplicate unless your towing up a grade. Oh yeah,I also could not resist cutting open the filter I took off. I was definitely dirty with 6k on it, but i didnt see any particles in it.
 
#9 ·
The fuel hoses that they are having troubles with are located under the driver's side where the fuel lines run from the frame over to the engine. There are hoses connected between the steel lines. Claim is that these hoses can collapse over time and cause a lack of fuel which trips the low rail pressure code.
Installing an aftermarket fuel pump in-line after the tank would cure alot as the high pressure pump would not have to pull the fuel some 20 feet from the tank to the engine.
If a leak is your problem, changing the fuel cap won't help. Won't hurt it either:).
Another possible problem that I have run into a few times is people who live on or drive on loose rock roads alot. I have found damage to the return fuel cooler in front of the fuel tank. It can get pin holes in the core from the rocks flying off of the tires. There is also a TSB about the 1/2" supply hose coming from the tank to the steel fuel line above the fuel cooler. Older models had a rubber hose where the new ones have a plastic hose.
 
#10 ·
I had the same problem with my truck a few times when I had someone else change my fuel filter. Sometimes the plastic WIF sensor on the bottom is tightened too tight. It gets a very small crack in it and will bleed the pressure off. Shut the truck off and watch it very close for a few minutes after shutting the truck off and see if it's leaking.
 
#12 ·
So much for the fuel filter being the issue. Yesterday after driving only about 8miles home from work I turned the truck off and everything was good until about a hour later I started it to leave again and it ran for about 10sec and shut down. No engine light. So I primed the filter cranked it over and it started. This is the first time that towing or a grade was involved. I'm not sure what I should do next. Does anybody else agree that I should install a fuel lifter? Or should I go after the fuel lines. I've looked at them and most of it is the steel lines,I've sen the small section of the braided under the engine. Is that where they go bad? Or right at the fuel filter? This problem is going to drive me crazy.
 
#15 ·
Yeah. The wif sensor.It looked good. I'm thinking about the fuel lines now I guess. It seems that priming the filter gets it going again.I wonder if that means the trouble is between the filter housing and the tank.
 
#16 ·
If its a loss of prime issue, it could be anywhere between the CP3 and the tank (suction part of the fuel system). This includes the filter housing, test port (just to the right of alternator, should be dry under the plastic cap) and fuel lines. This does not include the fuel cooler under the drivers side of the truck just beneath the bed. This is where pressurizing the system will greatly aid in finding the source of the leak
 
#17 ·
This problem is a tough one. Mine sets the code on inclines on warm days. Temp goes up to about 220, check engine light comes on, loses power. So far I did the race plug, and the lift pump. Still does it.
 
#20 ·
"User CP" then "Edit Signature"
 
#21 ·
Got it. Thanks.
I hate the idea of a CP3. I can get one for free off a blown engine, but the labor!
 
#22 ·
Yea Terry it's a crazy problem. I just wish it would just break, then I would know what it is. Mine is a little different than yours. I've never had a loss of power and the check engine light only came on once. Thanks guys for all the help. This site in the best. Ive learned a lot because of the people that take time to respond to other people's problems.
 
#23 ·
Had a LB7 do the same thing somewhat. it would start cold but not warm. Turned out to be bad injectors allowing fuel to bleed losing the rail pressure on start up.
On the right front of the engine there is a fuel rail test port that most everyone uses to bleed their fuel filters after changing them. Get the right size shrader valve tool and remove the valve. Attach a clear plastic tube to the the port and put the other end in a fuel can or some kind of container. Pump the primer on the fuel filter and watch for bubbles in the plastic tube. If you have them, you definitely have a leak. Could be an o-ring on the fuel line quick disconnects as well. Ran into a new one with a LB7 running a FASS system combined with a stock fuel filter housing. The steel tubes where they are pressed into the aluminum filter housing started to leak. We just removed the stock filter assy. and used one from a Caterpillar engine. Threaded fittings! :) The Fass has it's own filter system but I wanted one after the rubber hose but before the FICM.
 
#24 · (Edited)
While accelerating with a trailer last weekend my truck totally lost power, CEL came on, and would only go up to about 1200 RPMs. I went to the nearest auto parts store and it was throwing a P0087. I changed the fuel filter and she's was good to go. The old filter was only at about 80% life but it was clogged with algae.
 
#25 ·
While accelerating with a trailer last weekend my truck totally lost power, CEL came on, and would only go up to about 1200 RPMs. I went to the nearest auto parts store and it was throwing a P0087. I changed the fuel filter and she's was good to go. The old filter was only at about 80% life but it was clogged with algae.

Lucky!!!
 
#26 · (Edited)
It's been mentioned a few times. WIF Sensor. I know you looked at it, but a hairline crack is all it takes...and this sensor unit is the most likely cause. For all of 50 bucks or so, I would replace it. Also make sure your filter is on tight. I have changed mine a few times in summer and then when the cold comes (and it can come here in a heatbeat), any bump can break the seal and I start to loose prime.

I say this because you mention that you were able to prime it after not starting and then immediately after priming it started. This would, in my mind, preclude any hose/line issue and point to this WIF sensor in my opinion.

If you do replace it..tighten it by hand or with the proper WIF wrench - avail here on this site from a # of vendors. Overtightening will crack this unit easily

My truck has over 209,000 miles...no issues with lines (have cut mine for 2ndary fuel filter), cp3 or hoses...but lots of minor hassles with the OEM filter and that damned sensor.!

Theo
 
#27 ·
Yeah Steakman, I have checked it over the WIF pretty good but maybe it will be worth doing so I can eliminate that as a cause. Would it leak if it was cracked?

Im with you on the loss of prime issue. Again the other day I went to start in and it was running for about 5 sec then shut down. Then I cranked it over and nothing. Popped the hood and pumped the filter (without cracking the bleeder screw) housing and it was easy at first then I could feel it get harder to pump. Stopped there and turned it over and it started. Im sure there is a leak somewhere.

I read a lot with other people having trouble with theirs having a loss of power and going into limp mode. Mine has never done that and it only threw the 0087 code the once. If mine has been running for at least 10 sec it will run fine the whole time its on, not to worry until I try to start it the next time. Only happens 1/50 times, but thats enough to drive a person crazy.

Thanks for the input. :)
 
#28 ·
Hi guys I'm having a similar problem. In the mornings I can start my truck only to have it die out 10 sec later. I can prime the FP, then my truck starts up. The other morning after priming the FP, I noticed a hissing sound along with air coming off the top of the FP. It was near a wire though.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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