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Old 07-17-2011, 08:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
rlj4214
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07 won't start without priming after sitting on incline

Truck just turned over 100,000 miles. No problems till now.

So I read the threads about not starting or starting and shutting down.

Most of those are pretty simple and usually point to the filter, that is unless I missed one that was a bit more difficult.

This is a little different in my opinion.

So the truck seems fine for the most part when running, little sluggish under full throttle like it might need the filter changed though it says that it is at 34% in the DIC. This has been running fine for about 3000 miles.

This started with about 1/4 tank of fuel.

I pulled into a parking lot that made me park at an incline with the nose of the truck up. It sat for maybe an hour. I hit the remote start and went to pay the bill at the vet. Truck started cranking and didn't start though I didn't know it. I looked out the window and saw the front bumper shaking and realized it hadn't started. It was cranking fine. Just not starting. Sounded like it didn't have fuel so I opened the hood and pumped the filter primer. Bang started right up. Seemed logical at the time.

This happened again sitting with the passenger side of the truck sitting high. Same remedy.

The only other symptom is that under full throttle it seems to fall on it's face a little, not bad but some.

I was suspecting that possibly the injector pump was getting a bit worn or maybe the filter needed changing which I will do next week. It just seemed like the loss of prime symptom was related to the lack of power at full throttle since they both happened at about the same time.

I assume that there is a check valve to maintain prime. Would this be located at the filter housing? If so I assume it is internal to the housing.

Is there any reason to believe that the injector pump is starting to fail?

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The check valve is in the filter head, in the center, and is depressed by the cross hair piece on the fuel filter. Get a cheap fuel cap and tap it to accept an air fitting, then put about 10 PSI of air on the fuel system. Should make the leak somewhat easy to find
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
Mike23
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Had the same problem just switched out my filter never had the problem again.
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
rlj4214
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Thanks guys

I'll see what happens post filter change.

The idea about pressurizing the system is good. If the filter doesn't fix it I will search further. At this point I have noticed any leaks.

thanks again
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Amsoil everywhere.

I have patience sort of like Dr. Kevorkain's... It ain't around very long.
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
rlj4214
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So now i got a p0087

did some searching and found this answer on the Duramax forum

anybody else seen this or tried it?

Found a Fix for P0087 when under a load
My original thread with the full story of the problem was posted a couple weeks ago under "P0087 when under load going up mountains".

I FOUND A FIX FOR THE PROBLEM-COST ME $50 IN PARTS, LESS THAN AN HOUR OF MY OWN TIME, AND $30 FOR A TECHS ANSWER ON Ask Question & Experts Answer You ASAP! Name Your Price, Get Online Answers & Help - Just Answer!!!!!!! GM BULLETIN #PIP4526!!! Go to a GM dealer and ask them to print out this bulletin for you and do the repair. I had to order the hose (special kind) from a distributor of the supplier listed in the bulletin-$6 a foot x 3 ft (more than enough) + shipping, use standard hose clamps from a local autoparts store-2 clamps on each end of the hose.

When my husband got under the truck and looked at the section down by the tranny there were 2 spots in this 1.5 ft area that were soft and collapsed, replaced the section per the bulleting last night, went thru Jellico Mountain today with a camper like usual and the code DIDNT set.

What happens is after the hose gets good and hot (4-6 hrs driving), it softens and then collapses when you put the truck under pressure with a load---this cannot be duplicated in a shop with any testing due to special circumstances---unless someone is gonna hang underneath your truck while you drive down the road and watch to see if it collapses (LOL), which is why no one can figure out this problem. The $50 for the parts is worth the try...worked for us.

If anyone has any questions you can email me at "armorgan@core.com"...I will be more than happy to help. I would like to thank Hal at Eisinger Chevrolet in Columbia Falls, Montana for leading me to this bulletin for the fix!!!

(this bulletin actually has pictures of where the hose sections are located but they wouldnt transfer onto here, so have a GM dealer print it out for you)

#PIP4526: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs - keywords DTC hose kink loss P0087 P0093 P1093 pipe power reduced repair restrict restriction SES suction supply vacuum - (Nov 7, 2008)


Subject: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs


Models: 2001-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic

2001-2007 GMC Sierra Classic

2007-2009 Chevrolet Silverado

2007-2009 GMC Sierra

Equipped with the 6.6L Diesel Engine RPO codes LB7 LBZ LLY LMM




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.

If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed at Please wait while we redirect...
Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
The locations of the flexible hoses are pictured below.
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2007 Silverado classic 2500 LT3, Silver Birch Metallic. Sunroof, CC / SB / 4X4, Michelin LTX A/T 2 265/75-16's, 16x8 Black w/Mach Lip Dick Cepek Torque, Speedliner over the rails and fender wells in Silver Birch Metallic, RollBak bed cover, Bed Rug, 5" Magnaflow exhaust, Rhino coated Ranch Hand front end replacement and rear bumper. EFI Live tuner from Guy Tripp, SoCal Diesel. Thanks Guy.
Toy
2003 MonteCarlo SS. Galaxy Silver, Charcoal Leather, 3.8 liter CarTuning Turbo, Intercooled, custom exhaust, MSD Ignition system, 4 tube radiator, electric water pump, suspension mods, ASA AR1 wheels, Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500, DHP Tuning, no emblems, handles great, 22+ MPG, sleek, quick, quiet, comfortable, sleeper.
Amsoil everywhere.

I have patience sort of like Dr. Kevorkain's... It ain't around very long.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
tbensor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlj4214 View Post
Truck just turned over 100,000 miles. No problems till now.

So I read the threads about not starting or starting and shutting down.

Most of those are pretty simple and usually point to the filter, that is unless I missed one that was a bit more difficult.

This is a little different in my opinion.

So the truck seems fine for the most part when running, little sluggish under full throttle like it might need the filter changed though it says that it is at 34% in the DIC. This has been running fine for about 3000 miles.

This started with about 1/4 tank of fuel.

I pulled into a parking lot that made me park at an incline with the nose of the truck up. It sat for maybe an hour. I hit the remote start and went to pay the bill at the vet. Truck started cranking and didn't start though I didn't know it. I looked out the window and saw the front bumper shaking and realized it hadn't started. It was cranking fine. Just not starting. Sounded like it didn't have fuel so I opened the hood and pumped the filter primer. Bang started right up. Seemed logical at the time.

This happened again sitting with the passenger side of the truck sitting high. Same remedy.

The only other symptom is that under full throttle it seems to fall on it's face a little, not bad but some.

I was suspecting that possibly the injector pump was getting a bit worn or maybe the filter needed changing which I will do next week. It just seemed like the loss of prime symptom was related to the lack of power at full throttle since they both happened at about the same time.

I assume that there is a check valve to maintain prime. Would this be located at the filter housing? If so I assume it is internal to the housing.

Is there any reason to believe that the injector pump is starting to fail?

Thanks in advance

Saw someone who had something come loose in the tank and would have issues at 1\4 tank.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
rlj4214
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Do you have any idea what came lose in the tank Troy?
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Amsoil everywhere.

I have patience sort of like Dr. Kevorkain's... It ain't around very long.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlj4214 View Post
Do you have any idea what came lose in the tank Troy?
I think it was the pickup. it is connected to the fuel level sensor. read it her at some point.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
roy67ss
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Time for a lift pump

Look at posts 17 and 18.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
rlj4214
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Ok, so post fuel filter change it got worse. WIF sensor was not cracked anywhere and the O rings were fine.

I was priming the filter for the 3rd time and noticed that fuel was coming out of the nipple on the bottom of the WIF sensor.

Have a WIF sensor on the way, however, i got a vacuum line plug and put it over the nipple to see if that would help temporarily.

Bingo, so to speak. Starts fine and no more power loss. Really cheap band aid fix till I get the WIF sensor changed.

Thanks for your input. Hope that helps somebody.
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Toy
2003 MonteCarlo SS. Galaxy Silver, Charcoal Leather, 3.8 liter CarTuning Turbo, Intercooled, custom exhaust, MSD Ignition system, 4 tube radiator, electric water pump, suspension mods, ASA AR1 wheels, Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500, DHP Tuning, no emblems, handles great, 22+ MPG, sleek, quick, quiet, comfortable, sleeper.
Amsoil everywhere.

I have patience sort of like Dr. Kevorkain's... It ain't around very long.
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