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Old 10-28-2006, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
1tonchev
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Timing belt replacement on 3.4

Another of GM's ingenious ideas, to build an engine with no timeing marks.

Has anyone ever replaced a timing belt on this engine. My daughters car crapped the belt and am now trying to put in a new one. Problem is there are no timing marks on the DOHC to determine what postion the cams should be at. I have searched the internet, even bought a service manual, and it does not tell you nothing.
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are there any dots or dash's on the cam gears? Be sure to look at the front and back of the gear... If they don't have any markings like you said, I can't be of any help...
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Now we are talking... I loved those engines back in the day

Look carefully for paint marks on the timing gears. If there is not any marks, you'll have to remove the valve covers, that means the upper intake has to come off. The cams have flat spots on them. There is a tool that locks the cams togather with the flat spots up.

Its a long procedure to type out, but I can help if I can. make sure you replace the two idler pulleys, dont skimp on these.
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Alright. Lets get into this thing.

First, I'll assume you can remove the plastic timing cover. The PS pump and serp belt tensioner has to come off. Once you get in there, you'll see a bunch of pulleys and lots of shredded belt. At the very bottom is a drive pulley. This is connected to the crank and actually drives the timing belt. You will or should see a paint mark on that, if its not visable, you will have to go by the TDC mark on the balancer. At the very bottom of the timing belt area, just under that drive gear is a small notch in the aluminum. Thats the notch you want to line up with the drive gear. That will get the pistons in the right spot. Remove the tensioner from the engine, its held in with 2 13mm head bolts and a small bracket. The pullley has a through bolt in it, loosen that slightly and the pulley will rotate on a cam. Remove and throw away the two idler pulley's. Dont reuse them under any circumstances if you can help it. If they are loose, the belt will ride crooked and wear out quickly.

Assuming no paint marks on the cam pulleys, remove the upper intake and front and rear cam covers. When you remove the upper intake, inspect the brake booster hose carefully, then tend to swell up and not want to stay on the intake, blowing off and no power brakes and runs bad.

Once you have the cam covers off, look at the cams, there is a flat spot on each cam. We want to rotate the cams so they are staring at you in the rear and down in the front. You should be able to lay a straight edge acorss the flats and it will siton full contact for both of them. Route the belt around the cam and idler pulleys. Put all the slack in the belt near the tensioner, keep it tight around the front idler, drive pulley and front cam. Basically, what we want is the cam flats to be exactly opposite each other. When the back flats are up, the fronts are down, when the fronts are up, the rear is down. These need to be exact opposite. One tooth will make a difference.

As for the tensioner, to reset it, there is a rubber plug on the top of it, remove it and install a thin screwdriver and back off the screw, keep ahold of it, your pulling against a spring and once its pulled back in all the way, through the rubber plug on the spot that comes in at an angle, insert a paper clip through the rubber till it locks into the screwdriver slot and holds the tensioner retracted when you remove the screwdriver. Reinstall rubber plug in top. Take note on the end of tensioner, it has a ball end, make sure when you put it togather, that ball end is in place on the tensioner pulley. Reinstall the plate and 13mm bolts and after you sure its routed/assembled correctly, remove the paper clip and that will release the tensioner. Make sure that tensioner pulley bolt is just slightly loose still so it can cam. After releasing the tensioner, put a socket that will fit on the square point sticking out on the tensioner pulley and pull it to 11 ft lbs. After that, lock down the tensioner bolt. Rotate the engine a few times with a ratchet to make sure everything is good and reassemble.

Going off memory on this, may have missed something, but hopefully you get the jist of it.
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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We talking about the 3.4 'X' engine I use to love those. Impossible to work on by the average Joe, but a major money maker for some.
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, that makes sense. To me it would have made more sense for GM to put timing marks on the sprockets, but then when has GM ever used any common sense on any of their designs.
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You ought to see how they lock the cam gears onto the cams, you would think there would be a keyway... you'd be wrong.

The gears are "supposed" to come off for belt change, they're held on by a toothed piece between the gear and cam, tightening the gear bolt is what locks them together, wedges the pieces together... this is the reason for no timing marks.
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah, I remember my first one, I was thinking "S*$%"

Then I relized how it worked...Man those were money makers....Hmmm oil pump drive gear seal replacement...
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxalliTech;1379865;
yeah, I remember my first one, I was thinking "S*$%"

Then I relized how it worked...Man those were money makers....Hmmm oil pump drive gear seal replacement...

Yeaaa... they call for removing the head, but I think we both know how to get it out and not remove the head
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It is running like a new one. Thanks for the help.
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