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Old 08-21-2005, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
TFLundyB275
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add 700R4 temp gauge question

Been planing on putting in a temp gauge in my truck.(autometer 2640) Sounds like the best place is in the pan, second best in the pre-cooler line.

I dont really want to drill my pan. Today I heard a suggestion to try putting it in the pan, but through the 4 prong connector. at least one prong should be open and it should be able to be routed through that spot into the pan.

Any thoughts/ideas on it?

If I cant do something like that, Im considering just using a tee connector to tap into the coolent line.

also what is the max safe temp for the 700R4?

Thanks.
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Old 08-21-2005, 08:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
Mike L.
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I really disagree with reading the pre cooler temps. It could become a red herring to the uninformed. You need to read sump temps. That is what is cooling your 700, that is what is important. The guys wanting pre cooler temps are beating their puds and are ignorant.
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
Leadfoot
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Mike. Just curious as I've been misinformed in the past then:

By "pre cooler" temps, I'm ASSuming that we are talking about the line going from the tranny to the auxillary coolers (radiator and/or aftermarket cooler). I was under the impression that the fluid coming out of the tranny was much hotter (due to pressure, shearing, and slippage) goes through the cooler then returns at a (hopefully) much lower temp. Once fluid reaches a specified temp (depends on initial fluid quality and age) it begins to break down. Now if someone were to be reading pan temps (i.e. much cooler than pre cooler temps), couldn't they be put into a false sense of security (i.e. "My fluids have never reached X degrees therefor my fluids are fine" when in fact they did reach the "breakdown" temp)? Not disagreeing, just asking why you think pan temps are a better indicator? I would think you would want to know the highest temp reached, as that would be where the fluid would be breaking down.......


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Originally Posted by Mike L. View Post
I really disagree with reading the pre cooler temps. It could become a red herring to the uninformed. You need to read sump temps. That is what is cooling your 700, that is what is important. The guys wanting pre cooler temps are beating their puds and are ignorant.
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Old 08-22-2005, 01:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Found this reply by Mike L in another thread: "If you want to be a real purist. Tenp coming out of the converter(pre cooler )will tell you how hard the torque converter is working. Temp coming out of the cooler tells you how efficient the cooler is but it does not tell the whole story. There is fluid being dumped in the pan that never sees the cooler and compromises temps some times. What you really want to know is what temp the fluid is that the pump is going to recuirculate back into the system from the sump.
mike"


Now I see why. I thought all fluid went through the cooler before hitting the pan. Once again, I learned something new today. Thanks.
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1980 K series pulling truck: Full Roller 454+, 3:1 first gear planetary full manual TH400, Twin Sticked NP205 with Ford 32 spline front output, High Angle Driveshafts, Dakota Digital Dash, 4.56 gears, lockers front and rear, 35" Mud Kings mounted on chrome wagons, Custom blowshields, and a "Leadfoot" to match
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Leadfoot
You are thinking correctly and you answered your own question. If in fact the converter is overworking or something else is wrong, you will never cool the temps down in the sump. Normaly your converter fluid coming out to the cooler is about 225-250 at normal driving. Start pushing the converter wether it be towing or hard 4 wheeling, you might see temps ( pre cooler) at 350 F). This is telling you that the converter is working its tail off and generating some serious heat but not enough to get worried about because thats what it does. Now we watch the trans temps (sump) and see what the cooler was able to do with this heat. If your trans tems stay below 210 or so, you are still safe to a point but you know you need to back off a little so you don't generate any more. If the heat continues to rise, you know you are pushing too hard or there is something else wrong. So imho the sump temps tell me everything I need to know. Nothing wrong with pre cooler temp gauge, but it won't tell you as much as sump temps.
mike
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Old 08-22-2005, 11:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
TFLundyB275
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Leadfoot, I had the same confussion as you, but am clear now. espcially after reading that and traceing the fluid path on the 700R4 chart in the service manual. seems only a small amount of the fluid path goes through the cooler...the converter part

Mike..thanks alot for the info I had no idea the cooling path was so limited to just the converter. makes sense now that we are trying to watch how effecient it is on cooling that converter heated fluid.

So back to my main question...is it possible to route the temp gauge sender through the 4 prong plug so the sender is in the pan? it would be the electrical gauge type.
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Old 08-22-2005, 11:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The cooling path is not as limited as you might think, but it can be helped. We taught GM how to do it. If you have a 700 trans, pull the pressure regulator valve out of the pump ( can be done with a pan drop) and grind the second land off the valve on a grinder ( it's not fussy). What you will gain is 200 percent more cooler flow and more mid and low range torque. GM started doing this in 1992 on the 4L60E. Try it, you will like it and you WILL feel the difference. Any questions, my number is in my sig.
mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 03:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Wow, great I didnt know that, and I defently like the sound of adding more torque in those ranges along with more cooler flow. Im going to look into that for sure.

So no one has any info/thoughts on the gauge wire going through the 4 prong connecter??? someone most know something about it
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TH700R4HD, NP208, 3.73, Superwinch locking hubs, front positraction, 1 ton suspension.
BFG Commercial Traction tires, Autometer Tachometer, dual glasspack exhaust, Z75 quad front shocks.
CB and Ham Radio.
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFLundyB275 View Post
Wow, great I didnt know that, and I defently like the sound of adding more torque in those ranges along with more cooler flow. Im going to look into that for sure.

So no one has any info/thoughts on the gauge wire going through the 4 prong connecter??? someone most know something about it
The 4 prong connecter is nothing but 4 separate connecters. If you have an unused one, there is nothing wrong with using it for a guage wire connecter. What kind of temp sensore would you use inside the pan?
mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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To each their own but what I did on my 700R4 was to buy a B&M drain plug kit which just happens to be a 1/8 pipe plug.
Installed it about 1/2 off bottom of pan left side and the 1/8 pipe fitting is also the same size of most electric gauge senders.
BTY I also have the B&M deep sump oil pan.
Tranny temps are not a problem, in fact I had to use a bypass thermostat cause my tran temps were too cold.
Merle
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