Kinda urgent.. Shift Solenoid bolts stripped? - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
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4L80/85E Transmissions. 6L90 Transmission Discuss the 4L80/85E transmissions found in the 6.2/6.5L equipped vehicles and Duramax equipped vans. 6L90 discussion. is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Kinda urgent.. Shift Solenoid bolts stripped?

1993 C3500 454 4L80e, I just got done repairing my trans and I was doing a quick service, and went to change the solenoids and the internal harness. got to the shift solenoids, and the torx bit im using (T25, I had that would fit tightly) slipped and stripped it all the way around. I moved to the solenoid that mattered, and it slipped and stripped halfway. If I press hard, I can make it snug, but when I try to spin it out, it slips and strips further. I did my best, but nothing I had worked. I got out the T25 driver, but theres no room to get the driver in straight due to the crossmember. Normally, I would grind the screw head (due to the rounded head) and weld a nut to it and pull it out, but the trans is in the truck, and theres still fluid around the area, and I dont think welding in there is a good choice. Easy outs are horrible for torx heads in my previous experience. I could pick up a screw extractor, or this thing called prograbit, but ive never used any of those before. I was getting the grinder out to just say screw it and grind the edges down and bust out the vice grips, but grinding sends a lot of metal shavings, and sparks, both of which I do not want inside my valve body area, so i abandoned that plan. Alternatively, I could grind down and make it easy to remove these screws with a flat head, but wouldn't that up my risk of breaking the head off? theres only a small amount of the threads sticking out of the valve body if i break it off to remove the solenoid, so i dont want to run that risk. Ive heard of some sort of paste i can put into the whole, a coarse substance that would allow me to press the torx bit in and allowit to grab even though its stripped out. Any thoughts on this paste? Alternatively, I can pick up a brand new valve body with the shift solenoids tcc solenoid already installed (I would have to reuse the pressure control motor/solenoids) for around 150, and if i return the solenoids i purchased and use that cash, ill be about 125 bucks out total for the brand new valve body. The truck has 99,980 miles.

So, does anyone here have any suggestions on which route to take? BTW, welding isnt really an option where the truck is located, drilling is not possible due to clearance from the crossmember, and If you all are onboard with new valve body, is it just unbolt it throw the new one in and bolt it up, or is it alot more involved? Also, whats with the steel trans pan gasket with sealant on both sides? The guys at napa gave me the kit, and it has a rubber gasket, do i even need sealant with the rubber gasket, and do I have to reuse the metal gasket? Never come across this before. I need the truck on the road by tomorrow night, so if anyone has any information for me, please let me know asap, Im off work in 2 hours and then its back to trying to get this truck back on the road. Thanks for the help in advance!

1993 GMC Suburban K2500
5.7 4L80E, Daily Driver
Stock, Torsions Cranked for 35's
D60 Straight Axle Planned for Summer
1985 GMC Suburban K20 Project
5.7 Turbo 400 NP205
14BFF Rear D44 Front
D60 front swap in a few weeks
4.88's all around on 33's
6BT Swap currently in planning stages, gathering parts and adapters, engine will be refreshed prior.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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its not hard to drop the valve body... and then you could work on it easy drill em and use an easy out.... Clean it ect. you might need gaskets as well. But thats what id do.

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