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6.2 in 95 Suburban Question (oil pan and IP)

1K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  southernk30 
#1 ·
Im looking at a real clean 95 2500 Suburban with 200,000 miles on it. It has a blown head gasket. He says it has a relocated and upgraded PMD (front bumper) with heat sink and "Updated injection pump (not the troublesome 1995 version)".

I have a 85 6.2 with under 100,000 miles on it with a GM8 turbo set up that runs real well. If I buy this truck I was thinking I would just swap the 6.2 over and take everything off the 6.5. But after researching, it seems the 6.2 oil pan won't swap over because of the 6.2 2 piece rear main seal. Will the 6.2 pan fit in the Suburban?

Also when swapping over the timing cover and IP what all is needed? The timing has to be reset or something? Is that not something I can do in my garage?

Or would you just change the head gasket and go with the 6.5?

Thanks for any info/help.
 
#2 ·
Might have a tough time getting a good tune on a 6.2L with a 6.5L Electronic IP.

It may be easier to use a TCM from a DB2 truck and keep the mechanical IP you have on the 6.2L if you're going to go that route.

Personally, I would at least pull the head and check the condition of the 6.5L. If there's no major pitting or other damage and the compression test is good after bolting the head back on with a new gasket (should go ahead and do both sides... maybe install ARP studs while your in there?) I would just run the 6.5L. If my understanding of the 6.2L swap is correct, the money you save in programming and/or parts to do that might be better spent in servicing the 6.5L if the heads and block are intact.

Some things that could make the 6.5L less desirable at this point are a bad IP, or the potential for cracks in the head or block in the instance the motor was over heated. Also, a general lack of maintenance of the fuel, emissions and vacuum systems can take quite a chunk of change to get up to speed on the 6.5l.

You can have the heads tanked and fluxed for cheap while they are off to make sure they are good. The block will be a little harder to tell, but there may be some information out there on testing for cracks with fluorescent dye in cylinder bores while the block is still in the vehicle.

Good luck to ya!
 
#4 ·
Sometimes (if they havent been replaced and haven't fallen off) the freeze plugs have a little washer that looks kinda like the top of a 12 gauge shotgun shell glued in the center of them. Then middle circle of those is metal with a relatively low melting point. If they overheat, the metal melts and runs out. If they are intact it doesn't guarantee it didn't overheat, but it would suggest the temperatures were not all that extreme.

Worth looking for. I haven't looked to see if a 6.5L has that type of freeze plug from the factory.
 
#5 ·
"Updated injection pump (not the troublesome 1995 version)".

Thanks for any info/help.
Not sure how to answer.

But that statement flagged me.

Not sure what is the Updated IP? The IP is the same, now, the replacement IP probably have a better inside, assuming it was rebuilt properly.
Surely, the dealer probably replace the IP once due to PMD issue anyway.
Unless the vehicle is hardly driven.

The problem with this truck is the PMD.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Ok so I bought the truck. After talking with the guy, he was driving it and it started putting out white smoke every time he stopped at a light. He said it never over heated. Once he got home and turned it off and tired starting it the next day, he said it wouldnt turn over and he didnt try again bc he knew it could hydro lock.

So what are the chances when he tired starting it he bent a rod or something?

My plan now is to pull the heads and hope I can clearly tell the head gasket blew out. If everything looks good I will just chance the head gaskets. If not I will just swap my 6.2 in there.
 
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