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PullRite SuperGlide 16K or 18K questions????

LBZ: 
7K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  306LBZ 
#1 · (Edited)
Im looking at putting a hitch in my LBZ(in sig) and using it for work in the near future but have some questions first. Im taking rough guesses here on weight but I know Im pretty close, I figure the couple year old 36' fifth wheel enclosed cargo trailer Ill be using will be approx. 5000LBS(am I sounding way off). I believe its a tandem axle but single wheels not dual. The stock ill be hauling around in it will be anywhere from 5000LBS to maybe 7000LBS max (again im guessing) the stock will be Potato Chips. Haha no seriously chips are light but they still add up. Ill be using this unit on a 4-5 day a week basis driving on half highway half $#!tty back grid roads. I wont be abusing it on purpose but there is some rough roads that are unavoidable and everyday is a race to the end. I dont want to be braking things and having down time because of my decision. My question is can I get away with and will I be fine with the 16K?

PullRite SuperGlide Part #'s are 4100 and 4400 for the hitches 3345 for the rail kit.
 
#2 ·
I guess what Im really trying to find an answer to is , is this hitch durable enough to be used for "commercial" use everyday and hold up without major issue?

anyone have experience with this particular unit?
 
#3 ·
Ok well no answers for that question hey? ok then Can anyone tell me what all I need to install this set up? I know you need the hitch and rail/mounting kit but does the capture plate that bolts on to the fifthwheel come with either piece and is it actually needed?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I haven't used the Pullrite glider as I have a long bed. However, all of the fifth wheel hitches sold are made to last a lifetime of use. The manufacturer has no idea whether the person buying pulls trailer once a year of full time, so they have to make them to meet the full time end of the spectrum.

Besides the hitch, you should consider mounting a receptacle in the sidewall of the bed to plug the trailer into as hanging the cord over the tailgate will eventually wear off paint. And if your truck doesn't already have one, you'll need a brake controller. Lastly, consider getting a bed saver. This is a device that keeps the trailer from falling (and crushing) on your bed if it comes unhooked for some reason. There are a couple out there, and they all serve the purpose. One is a rod that mounts behind the pin after hooking up. If the pin comes unhitched, the rod keeps it from pulling back from the receiver. The brand "Bed Saver" from Blue Ox is passive in that once mounted, you don't have to do anything else. It catches the pin if it comes out and contains it.

Installation is fairly straight forward, but you will need basic tools including drill and bits. Depending on the brand hitch you chose, you may have to raise the bed up a few inches (temporarily) to mount the side rails.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info some of that I was assuming but its good to hear someone elses thoughts.

Now I just need to find out what all I need to buy to make this work with the soon to be mine trailer. Im not finding the info on their site for the capture plate if it comes with the hitch or rail kit or not... Hmmm.....
 
#6 ·
As for durability the Pullrite is about as HD as it gets; you should never have any issues with it as long as you keep it clean and lubed. The new ones with the Teflon likely don't even need that much attention. I've had one through two trucks and 3 fifth wheels with zero problems other than having to replace a tilt spring which does not keep the hitch from being used of functional. As for 16 or 18k, I haven't looked at pricing but I seem to recall the price being about the same so why not go for the extra capacity in case the need arises. Too much doesn't hurt---too little does. So nice to never have to worry about cab/trailer kiss. Make sure you provide good bed to underside of trailer clearance, especially if you are prone to going where things get very uneven (same with all 5th hitches).
Luck
 
#7 · (Edited)
Which Capture Plate and How???

Good to hear that and ya I decided to go with the 18K already but have a new dilema...

I need to figure out which capture plate Ill need to use with my trailer , Im thinking it will need to be welded on but if someone can help me out with this now it would be appreciated. Here are some pics to see what Im dealing with...
White Chain Photography Doorbell Still life photography


Vehicle Snow Car Machine


Snow Architecture Winter Table Metal
 
#8 ·
Call Pullrite for the plate, they are very very helpful. Personal preference is drill and tap for bugle head machine screws (or in your case with that hitch bugle head machine screws with nuts because you have top access). That way if you sell the trailer the plate is easy to remove.
 
#9 ·
I did call pullrite he said to email pics of what I meant but still havent heard back. Figured some experienced guys on here would give me a little knowledge incase my message is somehow lost in trasit. Is the purpose of the capture plate solely to alignt the hitch for hookup and lock the hitch from turning to induce the mechanism for the sliding function? and if so I suppose a universal one could be either welded or better yet as you suggest drilled and bolted on?
 
#10 ·
Has nothing to do (well maybe a tad if off centered) with alignment. It is what makes the slide move backwards and forwards when turning. I'd guess the uni will be it but with you hitch likely any would work if they have a dimension from king pin to front of plate close to what you have. Critical here is that the plate needs something above it close to the nose so that it won't bend when hitching. Hope that makes sense.
 
#11 ·
I think I get what your saying. Sooo your saying any capture plate (meant for this particular hitch) will work the only thing to watch for is that i should get one that doesnt stick out too far past the edge of the round part above the trailers kingpin?

Also Im assuming all kingpins are the same diameter , correct? and how does the capture plate cause the hitch to work ? (Is it the "block" on the opposing side that stops the hitch from turning on the kingpin thus causing the hitch to perform as intended?)



Thanks and sorry for the rookie questions I would just rather ask possibly dumb questions and make sure I know before hand...
 
#12 ·
Everything is standardized. The pin is the same size on all trailers and any hitch will work with all pins. It's not like tow trailers that use different size balls.


I think I get what your saying. Sooo your saying any capture plate (meant for this particular hitch) will work the only thing to watch for is that i should get one that doesnt stick out too far past the edge of the round part above the trailers kingpin?

Also Im assuming all kingpins are the same diameter , correct? and how does the capture plate cause the hitch to work ? (Is it the "block" on the opposing side that stops the hitch from turning on the kingpin thus causing the hitch to perform as intended?)



Thanks and sorry for the rookie questions I would just rather ask possibly dumb questions and make sure I know before hand...
 
#13 ·
I assumed so but just wanted to be sure , Ya never know....

Im starting to wonder if I really need a slider with this particular trailer. It does have a "V" Nose and Im starting to think Ill be OK with just a standard hitch and be able to save some cash. Then at least ill be able to tow another trailer without issue if the need arises.

I know its kind of hard to tell with these pics and if need be I can get more but does anyone have any opinions on this?
 
#14 ·
I have used my Pullrite for my 5th wheel for 2 seasons now. couple things to keep in mind:
You MUST be within 15 degrees of straightness between trailer and truck when you hitch up or unhitch. otherwise, you cant disconnect...
Adjust the Bolt that takes up the slack in the head ( easy to do, but do it every 1500 kms or so...)
You cannot use it to haul any other trailer without the plate
you cannot use the trailer with any other hitch unless you unbolt the adapter plate
 
#18 · (Edited)
I have used my Pullrite for my 5th wheel for 2 seasons now. couple things to keep in mind:
You MUST be within 15 degrees of straightness between trailer and truck when you hitch up or unhitch. otherwise, you cant disconnect...
Adjust the Bolt that takes up the slack in the head ( easy to do, but do it every 1500 kms or so...)
You cannot use it to haul any other trailer without the plate
you cannot use the trailer with any other hitch unless you unbolt the adapter plate
1. You can unhook and hook up at any angle. Just have to do it differently beyond 16*. Pull the hitch head side pins and lift/lower hitch head assembly on/off the saddle.
2. Adjustment -depends on hitch vintage. Two different types. Go to the Pullrite website and download the right pdf.
3.You can tow other trailers by locking out the slide or buying an adapter. The lock out "part" is something that needs to be fabricated. Search over at RV.net/forum on user C.B.
4. My adapter plate can be removed in less than ten minutes -non-issue
5. Lube hitch way tubes with Slip Plate graphite coating spray -if you don't have the newest delrin insert type way tubes.
6. On older model units -keep track of the ball bearing that runs in the y track for slop. If it fails -it is an ugly day on the road. Newer units use a sleeve bearing that is "more" reliable.
This is one of the best hitches in the industry for quality and after the sale support. It is very trouble free and doesn't clang and bang like many others plus you will never worry about smashing the glass out of your cab.....
 
#15 ·
Hmm there arent many cons to this hitch but the few there are are somewhat important. It is a downfall to have to be within 15 degrees of straight when unhooking but I guess that can be accomplished easily enough though. Not being able to haul another trailer for a buddy is a downfall and not being able to get a buddy to haul my trailer if needed is a fairly major downfall too.

How do you adjust the bolt that takes up slack and what do you mean takes up slack in the head?
 
#16 ·
if you don't keep it adjusted, you will get a clunk noise every time you start out from a stop...
with a 5th wheel, it is sometimes hard to have the truck and trailer in a straight line when you are hooking up or unhooking. just be aware... I spent 1/2 hr trying to unhook once...oops!
 
#17 ·
Bottom line is: if there is no clearance problem you do not need a slider hitch. Non sliders are much cheaper and simpler; however if you forsee a clearance issue for a future trailer then yes the Pullrite is the best.
 
#19 ·
^^^ what he said. I love my superglide making the hitch not moveable this weekend so I can tow another trailer, I just need to put in between the tubes a 4x4x12 steel tube, I use grease on my tubes because I do not trust graphite, plus it is covered when not in use.. the best thing about it is I never worry about tight turns (up to 90) into fuel stations at night on a busy road, I can remove my adapter plate (pin box specific for forest river) with a allen wrench, or if I do not want to remove I also have another adapter that my head fits into and anybody can pull my trailer
 
#20 · (Edited)
I think im gonna go with the Pullrite. I think im gonna have to weld the capture plate on though to make it work,, so Ill have to get a second one just in case someone else has to tow my trailer one day. In post 7 in my first picture you can see the removable king pin and the bolt that holds it in place. When a guy removes this bolt to switch king pins does it have to be torqued back to certain specs or just good and tight? (I've never changed king pins before on a trailer and just wanna be safe)

Also my kingpin doesnt look to have any more adjustment left to shorten it , Does the superglide have the ability to set the hitch head lower or higher? I think Ill need it at its lowest setting if it does.
 
#21 ·
I would german torque it on, my hitch has no height adjustment but you do not need any with that goose neck /kingpin just get a longer tube and drill another hole to give you more clearance.. BTW I would put in 2-3 bolts because my father inlaw has a pin box like yours and snapped 2 bolts that hold his in
 
#22 · (Edited)
Well I wanted to go with the superglide even though it would be a pain to get set up for my trailer. But my go to trailer/hitch shop changed their mind and said they dont wana deal with pullrite. Soo ill be going with a Reese 20K Slider in the near future. I did want the superglide for the no worry auto slideing feature and the bragging rights of having a sweet hitch set up but I really dont think its necessary in my set up. My trailer has a "V" Nose so I should have no worries. Now im just hoping Ill be able to leave my tool box on top the bed. Anyone have a 6 1/2' box that tows a fifthwheel with a above bed toolbox on like the one in my garage?
 
#24 ·
You will need a capture plate to mount to the pin box on your 5er. Pullrite makes many universal and some custom fit capture plates designed specifically to your pin box without any welding needed.

http://www.pullrite.com/pdfs/UCP.pdf

I used the custom capture plate designed for the Mor-Ryde pin box. The whole idea of the capture plate is to position the sliding hitch forward or rearward of center to move the 5er away from the truck as you turn. The capture plate is similar to a keyway system where the hitch is locked into the pin box and senses the turn so that the 5er can be automatically slid back away from the tow vehicle while turning.


I never regret the decision to buy my Pullrite and the only drawback is the 15 degree unhitch rule. You can do a tighter turn when unhitching, just need to pull 2 pins on the hitch and raise the 5er with the hitch head and you are done. Rehitching at the exact same angle becomes challenging but is doable.


Good Luck
 
#25 ·
If you look at the pics I posted above my pin box is a little tricky'er to install the capture plate. It is only maybe 12"s in diameter so it makes it difficult to bolt the minimum 10(?) bolts required in the instructions. I have decided to go with a Reese 20K Manual Slider Hitch because 1. I should be able to get away without the auto slider as my trailer is a "V Nose" type and should be fine (fingers crossed) as is and I'll have the slider just in case and 2. My local hitch place that will be doing the install says they dont want to deal with that hitch. They have seen only one before and it was brought in to have some pieces on the hitch head replaced and they decided that it isnt the best option for our climate up here in Sask. Maybe there are people with other opinions but I havent heard those opinions from guys with comparable climates.
 
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