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Need to change my serpintine belt

LBZ: 
49K views 33 replies 23 participants last post by  Dooner 
#1 ·
I need to change my serpentine belt. Does anybody have a how to, step by step process on how I can do this? It would be much appreciated.:)
 
#2 · (Edited)
No step by step needed. Put a socket on the tensioner and pull. Take belt off. Follow diagram under hood to route new belt. Pull tensioner and put belt over it. Sould only take 10 minutes. Might want to do the AC belt too since it is behind the serpentine
 
#4 ·
Have you ever looked under the hood of an LBZ or at the belt specifically? Only one belt, not a separate one for the AC. And its going to take more then 10 min if its some one's first time due to the stupid fan guard GM put on there.

Thank you, oddly enough, my truck does not have a diagram under the hood. Went to Dayco the belt maker, and found the diagram. then I turned over the cardboard sleeve the belt is purchased in, and there was the diagram.
Thanks for the info on the AC belt. Thats what makes this website so valuable. I just changed my left front wheel bearing with a how to step by step guide.
Thanks,
Frank
If you have the belt routing you should be fine. You will have to remove the top bolt on the fan guard that is connected to the oil fill tube. After doing that you should be able to slide the guard forward enough to put a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet on the tensioner to loosen the belt. Get it out the best way you can then put the new one back on.

Good luck. I took that guard off my truck completely when I changed my water pump, but doing so requires you take the fan off the fan pulley.
 
#3 ·
Need to change my sepentine belt

Thank you, oddly enough, my truck does not have a diagram under the hood. Went to Dayco the belt maker, and found the diagram. then I turned over the cardboard sleeve the belt is purchased in, and there was the diagram.
Thanks for the info on the AC belt. Thats what makes this website so valuable. I just changed my left front wheel bearing with a how to step by step guide.
Thanks,
Frank
 
#5 ·
I looked at the fan shroud/protector and thought it would make it alot easier if this could be removed. Also, what about the plastic guard on the bottom? And even the skid plate? Do they need to come off too?
 
#7 ·
Well I got the belt changed! Yes, being my first time, it took me hours. I took the whole tensioner right off the truck. Took the black guard off the bottom near the skid plate just so I could be sure I had it lined up correctly. If it was not for my nieghbor, I would still be there saying a few choice words! My Chiltons manual does not mention the square hole where you put the 1/2" breaker bar. That's what I meant by a step by step guide. It's the little things that could be posted for the non mechanic like me. I love being able to do some work on my truck, and I am so willing to learn. I made a promise to myself when I bought my LBZ, that i was going to keep it 10+ years. So anything I can learn to do myself, I figure I am ahead of the game. Besides, the new LML's sure do look nice, but not at 55-60K. What I paid for my LBZ, is what the new 1500 crew cabs are priced at, in a gasser. It's getting too rich for my blood. I would rather keep mine and put Mods on it!
 
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#8 ·
I see you got it done already but the routing diagram is in the engine manual if you have it. They don't put the sticker on the shroud anymore, that extra .10 cents for the decal was killing GM I guess. It's not the easiest belt to change but not the worst job either, but I would'nt want to do it on the side of the road somewhere. I took the top black plastic cover (not the fan shroud) off and the lower plastic splash guard off, seemed to make it easier. The 1/2 drive square on the tensioner is tough to get on but I was able to get on it with a standard breaker bar. I put a gatorback belt on a couple years ago, seems to be a better quality belt and has held up well.
 
#9 ·
Here's my step-by-step:

1. Take to dealer service department.

2. Order belt change and any other needed service.

3. Take wife to breakfast or lunch with her truck.

4. Return to service department, hand cashier credit card. Notice truck has been vacuumed and washed. :)

No back pain, scrapes or cuts (I rate jobs by number of Band-Aids required) no easy-outs, Heli-coils, welding, numerous trips to parts house for right sized hose clamps, things that were forgotten or concrete cleaner. With age comes wisdom and callouses. :D
 
#33 · (Edited)
Really

Here's my step-by-step:

1. Take to dealer service department.

2. Order belt change and any other needed service.

3. Take wife to breakfast or lunch with her truck.

4. Return to service department, hand cashier credit card. Notice truck has been vacuumed and washed. :)

No back pain, scrapes or cuts (I rate jobs by number of Band-Aids required) no easy-outs, Heli-coils, welding, numerous trips to parts house for right sized hose clamps, things that were forgotten or concrete cleaner. With age comes wisdom and callouses. :D

AXLE NUT surley you jest Truck washed and vacumed??? I agree sometimes it is just easier to take it to a dealer and be done with it. and build loyality I always thought that But I never had a dealer in a town where I purchased a vehicle from ever go the extra distance for me or my wife??? However i was traveling in FLA with my Toy Hauler and Dodge CTD and went to a dealer to have my AC EVAP replaced and the service was so good i Almost purchased a new truck while i was there just could not afford it. when I went back the next year i took the Dodge CTD back for 2 major repairs. best dealer i have ever been to.

on the subject just changed my belt due to squeaking IN my 2007 LBZ What a PITA. wish i had the info from this thread before i did it . I am going to try a gator back next.

Have a great day.

Chris
 
#10 ·
How many miles did everyone have on the factory belt? Was it cracking or just replaced for peace of mind? I've got 78K on my factory belt and so far shows mo signs of cracking.
 
#11 ·
Changed mine because the stock one was squealing a bit. Goodyear gatorback belt stopped that.
 
#12 ·
Serp blets are a PITA on the LBZ's and newer because of the above mentioned shroud. I just replaced the one on my LBZ only cause it had 200k on it. No squeaks, just avoiding a future problem.
 
#14 ·
Had replaced the OEM belt around 30K also because of belt chirp. Now coming on 60K with a GY Gatorback and starting to chirp again. I dont recall my LBZ taking anymore then 10 min to swap out. Maybe had to do some pulling, twisting, and shoveing but it seemed to be an okay job for DIY'er.
-Bryan
 
#15 ·
Hey Axlenut:

That was a good post; I had good chuckle out of that.
 
#17 ·
The OEM one seems to last a long time, changed mine at 110k b/c I needed a longer belt and the OEM still looked to be in really good shape. A lot of people seem to like the gatorback belts too, so go with what you like.
 
#18 ·
The dealer replaced the serp belt at 1572 Miles/ then again at 22523 miles then a Fan belt bullitin #07-06-01-003 at 24914 then I replaced it myself again at 58969 miles to a goodyear belt. It always started to squeak.
 
#20 ·
I have a 160k on my stock belt. Im gonna change it this weekend I think. Im on the road for 300 miles every day and I dont want to see what happens when it breaks.
 
#21 ·
I changed mine at 58k because of the chirping, also replaced the tensioner and idlers, put it all back together and it still chirped. It isn't a 10 minute job, the fan makes it a pain, more like 1.5 hours.
 
#23 ·
Just changed mine as well as idlers and tensioner due to a chirp. Good news, everything is new. Bad news, it is the alternator chirping and now has decided to discharge at will. My stethescope is missing so i miss diagnosed the chirp by guessing at it. But the engine has 117k miles on it and the original idlers did not spin smoothly so i guess it was time anyway.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I had mine changed under warranty at 1,300 miles due to squeaking and I have had a gatorback in the toolbox that I have intended on putting on for almost 2 years now. Currently at 116k miles, need to get that changed soon.

Anyway, here is the step-by-step directions and routing diagram.
 

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#25 ·
I have a 2007 LBZ with 26K miles. Chirp chirp chirp every time I start it and lately it hasn't stopped. Guess I'll change the belt and see if that fixes it. Oddly enough I found a used serp belt in my parts locker left over from my previous 06 Classic ... think I change it for the same reason (chirping noise).
 
#26 ·
just put a gatorback on mine... i foudn it easier to remove that little skidplate underneath and then feed the belt down thru on the pass. side of the pulley then get underneath and fish it thru the fan and onto the pulley. only after trying for about an hour doing it from the top did i go that route and get it done in 5 mins.
im the 2nd owner on my truck i just hit 122k and it appears to be the oem belt, it was scored pretty bad glad i that i got it over with.
oh and i got the belt off rockauto for $33 shipped vs. about $45 plus tax locally.
 
#27 ·
Oh, I see......There is a square hole for the breaker bar...I didn't read that earlier..maybeI missed it...Yeah....PITA.....Still at it.............I got 105,000 miles. Never had a prob. So I bought OEM. Yeah I hope this doesn't happen on the road......how the heck ya gonna do this on the side of the road.
 
#28 ·
Another good point I didn't read was to go around every pulley except the air conditioning when installing - then take the breaker bar to give it slack to go around that last pulley. Don't try to do the tensioner pulley last.........
 
#29 ·
Whew, yeah, I shoulda dropped it off for the stealership to do it......but now that I did it this first time with only 1 bloody knuckle - I will do it again knowing what tricks need to be done.

And yeah, I dropped that plastic skid plate underneath so I could see that it was on the bottom pulley OK.
 
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